Androgynous style for the new season
Nili Lotan draws on ’70s rock culture for a new take on femininity
Audrey Hepburn once said that Paris is always a good idea. That was certainly the view of Nili Lotan when she cast her eyes over an archival image at the Musée Yves Saint Laurent in the cultural heart of the city. The photo was everything you might expect of a Parisian fashion shot – all polka dots, pinstripes and monotones – and the designer knew instantly she had her inspiration for her FW19 collection.
“I devoted this season to an exploration of elegance and sophistication,” said Lotan. It’s a masculine take on feminine beauty, blurring the lines between male and female attire. Inspired by the wardrobes of Diane Keaton and Lauren Hutton during the power-dressing decades of the ’70s and ’80s, the mood is strong and structured, yet soft around the edges. Think straight-leg tailored pants with fitted cotton shirts and neat waistcoats; hairstyles are loose, relaxed; shoes are simple and fuss-free. There is a play with contrasts in all aspects – tactile wool with butter-soft silk; shoulder pads and starched collars; shiny black leather with sumptuous faux fur.
The campaign is shot against an industrial landscape of hard lines, concrete and glass. It’s representative of the masculine versus feminine, with the model in the foreground commanding the shot. The collection is in muted, neutral tones, with a heavy emphasis on tan, white and black. The colors are undoubtedly influenced by the bustling city Lotan now calls home – New York. Having grown up in the vibrancy of Tel Aviv, Lotan now lives in the Tribeca neighborhood of Manhattan with her family. Influenced by the people she passes every day, the designer wants her brand to create functional, clean and sophisticated clothing for the modern, city-living woman.
Lotan hopes this collection will be used as a language, a medium in which women can express and define themselves. With those values in mind, we can’t wait to wear it.
“It’s a masculine take on feminine beauty, blurring the lines between male and female attire… inspired by the wardrobes of Diane Keaton and Lauren Hutton during the power-dressing decades of the ’70s and ’80s
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The message is that women needn’t dress like men in order to assert their power and worth. Their wardrobes can be glamorous, even sexy, while also falling into the category of subversive and interesting. The brand is encouraging women to fight stereotypes in fashion and trends; to dress as a reflection of their personality, depth and self-empowerment.
When designing the collection, Lotan often thought of her late father, who she considers the most elegant man she has ever met. She reminisces fondly that he was never without his tailored suits, tweed jackets and corduroy trousers, and prioritised quality materials and a high standard of finish. This thread is evident throughout the collection – each piece nods subtly to his smartness and grace.