Bespoke Feature

Gucci’s new groove

Sartorial alchemist Alessandro Michele has done it again. This season, the designer and creative director of fashion powerhouse Gucci has served up a genre-defying collection that deftly balances elegance, eccentricity and sensuality. The result? Sublimely beautiful and truly covetable clothes

Fashion

Italian heritage house Gucci is no stranger to change. Founded as a luggage brand in 1920s Florence by artisan Guccio Gucci, the house has become a cultural icon and will celebrate its centenary next year. However, while this illustrious heritage is obviously part of the brand’s allure, what sets it apart from similarly storied labels is the fact that Gucci doesn’t trade solely on its history; innovation is also integral to its DNA. All of which goes a long way to explaining why, for SS20, creative director Alessandro Michele took a big risk, forgoing the riotous prints and flamboyant pieces for which he has become known in favor of a sleek and decidedly understated aesthetic.

A change in perspective may not sound like a big deal – after all, fashion thrives on newness. But when you consider how Michele, who took the helm back in 2015, turned the label’s fortunes around – from day one, his designs were a critical and commercial success – you can begin to understand the importance of this decision. The stakes might have been high, but this exceptional collection, full of future classics, is proof that Michele’s gamble more than paid off.

Inspired by fashion’s innate ability to create and shape one’s identity within the world, and, by the same token, push back against the narrative others might try to impose on us, Michele’s SS20 collection is full of gender-fluid pieces that can be worn in any number of combinations. A true innovator, Michele’s genius lies in his ability to create needle-moving designs that are also endlessly wearable.

Take a pair of ’70s-inspired, cropped wide-leg pants. Whether you’re drawn to classic back or want to breathe new life into your look in the form of mint-green tailoring, these playful-yet-practical pants will slip effortlessly into your existing closet. Paired with a classic horsebit belt, silk blouse and ladylike heels, they make for a chic yet office-appropriate outfit. Alternatively, if you’re heading for dinner and drinks with friends, play up to the retro mood by wearing yours with a statement blazer. Layering your jacket over a simple white tee will ensure the final look is slick and modern.

A true innovator, Michele’s genius lies in his ability to create needle-moving designs that are also endlessly wearable

All-out glamour has always been an area in which Michele has excelled, and this collection is no exception. On the hunt for the perfect date-night look? Whether you opt for this season’s must-have scoop neck or a plunging style, a shimmering bodysuit is sure to turn heads. A midi skirt cast in a rich burgundy hue is the perfect accompaniment, but whether you choose a classic pleated design or a leather pencil skirt depends on how big a statement you’re hoping to make.

If it’s a gala dinner you’re dressing for, add some joy to proceedings in a turquoise and gold dress; this molten piece will come alive in the candlelight. Having dressed Best Actress nominee Saoirse Ronan for this year’s Academy Awards and redefined maternity style with actor Jodie Turner-Smith’s jaw-dropping BAFTAs look, Gucci is the final word when it comes to fantasy dressing.

Ultimately, the magic of Gucci lies in the brand’s ability to ignite, rather than follow, trends

Of course, it would be impossible to discuss Gucci’s dominance over the fashion landscape without touching on accessories. Michele has brought his signature future-facing retro touch to the label’s handbags, creating cult pieces in the process. The latest in that line-up? The Gucci 1955 Horsebit bag. This elegant-yet-effortless top-handle style is the perfect way to punctuate any ensemble. While these bags take references from the house’s ’50s archives, when it comes to the brand’s sunglasses, think ’60s. Super-sized circular frames are an easy way to add playful polish to your off-duty look.

Ultimately, the magic of Gucci lies in the brand’s ability to ignite, rather than follow, trends. One need only look at the genre-defying women wearing Gucci today, from actor Tessa Thompson and director Gia Coppola to pop sensation Billie Eilish, to see that the label’s inclusive and progressive aesthetic has a very bright future.

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