In The Know: The New Way To Do Old-Money Monaco
Beyond Port Hercule’s superyacht moorings and the pageantry of the casino, there’s a much more discreet and chic way to do Monaco, which only insiders can tell you about, says NATASHA BIRD
Modern Monaco has evolved some way from Prince Charles III’s high-glamour Belle Époque vision, or even the elegant Grace Kelly era. Opulent it still is, but superyachts stern to stern, Grand Prix excess and the absolute chaos of Place du Casino has rather hampered any claims of quiet luxury.
The principality’s stylish, understated pockets remain intact, but you really have to know where to find them. Old Monegasque families tend to keep a low profile and often slip away during Formula One and major yachting weekends. “Generally speaking, we prefer a discreet lifestyle,” says Anaïs Trabucco-Houdu, a local from a well-established Monegasque family. “The Monegasques prefer to spend their time at the Monte-Carlo Country Club or the Monte-Carlo Golf Club.” Tennis, particularly the Rolex Monte-Carlo Masters, is still a favorite. A polo shirt embroidered with the subtle crest of the Monte-Carlo Country Club functions as Riviera social signaling – it’s an emblem far more powerful here than any designer logo.
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“If you know where to go, the cuisine in Monaco is really elevated”Alessandra Vicedomini
Where to eat
Monaco’s public image is sometimes brassy, but there’s a meticulous and refined dining scene beyond the flashy favorites. “A lot of the highly publicized places are overrated,” says Monaco-based fashion designer Alessandra Vicedomini. “If you know where to go, however, the cuisine in Monaco is really elevated.”
Of her recommendations, there is Tuscan-inspired Cantinetta Antinori, all candlelight, white tablecloths and serious wine; or Monaco’s first gourmet Chinese restaurant, Song Qi on Avenue Princesse Grace, which has a serene atmosphere, very few tables and a discerning, sophisticated clientele. The Michelin-starred Maybourne Riviera up on a cliffside edges a little into glitzy but is worth a visit, even just for the views. For those who appreciate the simple pleasure of freshly caught fish cooked incredibly well, there’s Les Perles de Monte-Carlo, Quai des Artistes and U Luvassu, which offer the very best seafood without any pretension to speak of. “U Luvassu is actually run by a local fisherman who delivers fish to seafood restaurants,” says Vicedomini. “As well as selling fish, they cook it on the spot for you. It’s low-key but very cultured and understated.”
“You have to understand,” says Vicedomini, “the Monegasque do not contain themselves to the two-square kilometers of Monte Carlo.” Residents routinely cross into neighboring communities for lunch and dinner. Roquebrune-Cap-Martin offers Le Cabanon du Buse and Loulou Pirate (an outpost of the famous Parisian address), which is built into the rocks so diners can languish on a series of terraces that are largely hidden from one another. In a similar vein, chef Mauro Colagreco’s Michelin-starred Mirazur, in Menton, has tasting-menu elegance in a secluded, multi-layered establishment overlooking the Mediterranean.
Nearby, Cap Estel – recently acquired by LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault – remains one of the Riviera’s enviable invitations. “It is a very old Belle Époque villa, which was turned into a hotel and renovated in the 1950s – and hosts the most prestigious private guests,” says Vicedomini. “You go there to eat well and not be seen. It is like a palace residence and you feel really secure there.”
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The yacht to spot
The same philosophy applies to yacht-spotting in the marina. The boats that fascinate Monaco’s old guard are not necessarily the largest. One of the harbor’s most-admired vessels is Pacha III, the classic 1936 Camper & Nicholsons yacht associated with Princess Caroline of Hanover. At just 36 meters, it looks modest beside the floating palaces that now dominate Port Hercule, yet its pedigree, history and elegance make it infinitely more interesting than many of its newer neighbors.
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For sauntering around
Walk through Le Rocher, the old town clustered around the Prince’s Palace, where pastel hued golden-age buildings line narrow lanes, like a Positano hill scene. Continue along sections of the Sentier des Douaniers coastal path towards Plage de la Mala, or explore the meticulously maintained Japanese Garden on the waterfront.
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Money can’t buy culture
Vicedomini gives due credit to the major exhibitions staged by the Grimaldi Forum and the National Museum. Recent years have brought scholarly shows dedicated to Coco Chanel and Salvador Dalí. “The new curator is unbelievable,” she says. “He comes from Paris and he really has an eye.”
According to Trabucco-Houdu, the most influential circles are deeply community-minded. Many gravitate towards organizations such as the Fondation Princesse Charlène, whose work around sport, education and water safety has become an important part of Monaco’s social fabric. The foundation is led by Princess Charlene herself, with Prince Albert II serving as vice president, and attracts a network of local supporters, philanthropists and long-term residents who prefer their social gatherings to have purpose rather than overtly public scenes. Trabucco-Houdu and her own family have done a lot of work to support young adults facing cancer, while endorsing sport and wellbeing initiatives as part of their treatment and recovery.
In a place that’s often defined by sparkling visibility it is, interestingly, behind the closed doors of these mostly by-invitation-only meetings that you’ll find Monaco’s understated, but deeply chic old-money players. If you’re looking for a way in, it certainly doesn’t hurt to tarry at the Country Club. Just don’t let anyone catch you photographing your dinner, no matter how exquisite it looks.