How to spend a day in Rio de Janeiro
Life’s a beach in Rio de Janeiro, especially during Carnival when the party crowd descend to embrace the fun-loving Carioca mantra of a boa vida, the good life. DELILAH KHOMO explores this sensuous hotspot from the beaches of Aproador to the hilltops of Santa Teresa
8am
The best place to wake up in Rio is the Fasano hotel. Draw the curtains and take in the 360º views of the ocean and the Dois Irmãos Mountains from one of the top-floor suites, which are filled with Brazilian modernist furniture. Make the most of the beachfront location in a private cabana – use the complimentary Havaianas flip-flops to pad down to the best stretch of beach in Aproador. For the most Instagrammable backdrop, though, head to the rooftop infinity pool for an obligatory selfie shot supping a fresh coconut. And no matter how late you were out last night, don’t miss the breakfast spread, which serves every kind of exotic juice, super-strong Brazilian coffee, plus breads and eggs of every description.
10am
Rent an electric bike and cycle along Ipanema beach, before heading for a beach-body workout session at BodyTech on Rua Barão da Torre. Make sure you book ahead on their website – the Pilates classes have earned a cult following. Afterwards, browse the lifestyle emporium Isabela Capeto for take-home treasures like cotton dresses and colorful ceramics, and trawl through the antiques emporium Mercado Moderno for more modernist finds. On Sundays, don’t miss the weekly hippie market in Ipanema.
1pm
Lunch at Celeiro is a must; a local institution in Leblon with a hardcore list of regulars who love its bikini-friendly menu of tasty gluten-free/lactose-intolerant/vegan options. For dessert, however, it’s all about the guava-and-coconut-stuffed tapioca crêpes at nearby Bibi Em Casa.
3pm
Slip into the rhythm of Rio’s beach life and catch the waves at Praia do Pepê, a stretch of shoreline known for kite surfing, and suitable for beginners and experts. While away an afternoon practicing capoeira or just shooting the breeze at the surf hangout Atlantico Rio in nearby by Barra da Tijuca, the brainchild of Argentinian Mixologist Tato Giovannoni, whose quiosque is renowned for its extensive cocktail list made with artisan spirits. Order the San Francisco Julep with guava and mint and nibble the signature tapas of grilled octopus with squash and zucchini.
5pm
For instant access to the Carnival, seek out the action during the samba school rehearsals. Here, you can dance, carouse and imbibe the city’s lively and convivial atmosphere, as Rio’s legendary samba schools prepare to walk the main parade. For tickets to the best party stand at Carnival in the Sambadrome, book ahead through Camarote No1.
8pm
As night falls, escape the crowds and head to the hills for the best views of the famous Christ the Redeemer statue lit up. Here, in the bohemian hilltop of Santa Teresa, dine at Espirito Santa on dishes like feijoada (meat stew) and moqueca (made with river fish) then, for after-dinner drinks, it’s all about the outside bar at Casa Camolese, a Soho House-style hangout in the Jardim Botânico, adored for its chill-out sounds, art gallery space and champagne bar. Don’t want the day to end? There’s always after-hours dancing in the basement jazz club.
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