PORTER Postcard: Ischia

Located at the summit of Mount Vico, San Montano Resort & Spa boasts an impressive panorama of the Bay of Naples and the magnificent neighboring Mount Epomeo. Three hectares of lush garden encircle the resort, with umbrella pines and more than 400 lemon trees providing shade against the Mediterranean sun. This family-owned, 66-roomed establishment is warm and welcoming – the kind of place where guests return year after year, becoming intimately acquainted with the concierge.

The Infinity Pool Suites have private terraces and spectacular sea views, but the recently unveiled Lighthouse Suite occupies the resort’s most coveted, hilltop position. It’s a retreat within a retreat: three separate living areas, a private garden and a plunge pool. For culinary enthusiasts, there’s a fully equipped kitchen to use at your leisure, or you can engage a private chef to whip up a meal using fresh produce from the vegetable plot.

Spend your days dipping in and out of the resort’s 11 rejuvenating thermal pools, relaxing on sun loungers at the San Montano Bay beach club, finding sanctuary in the Ocean Blue Spa, or playing tennis on the clay courts, just a stone’s throw away in the town of Lacco Ameno. As aperitivo hour approaches, the Sunset Bar is the go-to for spritzes and small plates. What’s more, live music plays here every night, adding to the elegant atmosphere.

On the western edge of the island, carved directly into the rock, sits Lisola, a lively Mediterranean restaurant with stylish whitewashed interiors and sweeping views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The kitchen is helmed by renowned pizza chef Ivano Veccia and Nino Di Costanzo of the two-Michelin-starred Daní Maison, who showcase the best of southern Italy’s seasonal ingredients, from the catch of the day to rabbit ravioli and five-tomato spaghetti. The dishes are stellar across the board, but Lisola is really known for being the place for pizza. Choose from classic Neapolitan, fried and Roman-style slices with an inspired selection of traditional and signature toppings. To make the most of the restaurant’s gorgeous seafront vista, be sure to secure a table on the terrace, if you can. The golden glow and candy-colored skies of the sunset from this particular spot is not to be missed.

Italy’s Campania region is rich with culinary crowd-pleasers punctuated by beautiful sun-drenched ingredients and simple, robust flavors. Bruschetta al pomodoro and mozzarella di bufala might always be on the menu but ask any Ischia local and they’ll tell you the dish to savor on the island is rabbit stew. Served in a homecooked style with cherry tomatoes and fresh herbs, it’s an unlikely seaside specialty rooted in a long-standing tradition acquired from the mountain-dwelling populous.

With extremely fertile volcanic soil and an ideal climate for white grapes, the biancolella and forastera varieties grow in abundance. They’re found on steep, cliffside terraces – some so close to the edge that according to local lore, their roots reach the sea. Several award-winning wine producers continue ancient methods of viticulture, resulting in the salty freshness and rich minerality of Ischia Bianco – our drink of choice. Don’t miss the Michelin-starred Umberto a Mare’s wine cellar, beneath the Church of the Soccorso, for intimate, sommelier-guided tastings and expert pairings of over 1000 local, Italian and international labels.

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