An Insiders’ Guide To The South Of France

Each May, as the Cannes Film Festival transforms the coastline into a theater of flashbulbs, red carpets and intriguing start-studded after-parties, the South of France dances back into the forefront of consciousness. Riviera travel is very rarely out of favor, but this is the time of year that the Côte D’Azur is firmly front and center. Its stalwart venues, such as the princely Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and the more contemporary, cliffside Maybourne Riviera, perched high above the sea, are in peak demand. These icons of the coast will probably always reign supreme, but there are lots of little tucked away gems just waiting for discovery too and we’ve asked four excellently placed insiders to spill all of their secrets.

My favorite spot is…

Palm Beach Cannes, built in 1929, is an Art Deco, Hispano-Moorish palace and former casino once frequented by the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Winston Churchill and the rest of the who’s who of Riviera glitterati. Now reimagined after five years of closure, it has returned with its iconic saltwater pool, private members’ club and wellness space with sauna and cold plunge. For me, the perfect day here involves a swim, followed by a slow wander through the boutiques, an afternoon between the pool and wellness area, before heading up for cocktails or dinner at La Petite Maison, Zuma or Il Grande Palm Beach, with its exceptional views over the Lérins Islands. The night is well catered for by the decadent Medusa, which has Parisian cabaret.

For a once-in-a-lifetime experience…

Stay at Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, one of the true icons of the region. Begin on the clay tennis courts and then drift down to the pool for a long, unhurried afternoon. As the light softens, take an apéritif on the champagne terrace, then dinner at The Grill overlooking the sea. It feels like stepping back into the 1920s golden age of the Côte d’Azur. After, wander down to Plage Keller, set along the same stretch of coastline that defined Fitzgerald’s literary world, and then Coco Chanel’s beachside style.

For the best views…

I like to take a bike and head out through the vineyards just beyond the villages of Saint-Tropez. If you go a little further, the road rises towards the Massif de l’Estérel, where the red rock meets the sea. I always retreat back to Villa Cosy, which has its own private vineyard on the grounds and is just a short walk from Place des Lices. The team can guide you through these more under-the-radar routes – and, back at the hotel, you can enjoy the quaint vineyard views and their delicious homemade wine and olive oil.

Best bar to be seen in…

It depends. If you’re in the mood for a little theater, head to Le Bar Américain at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo on a Thursday night. It has live jazz, serves a great margarita and is enough of a reason to dress up before dinner. The nights I prefer start more quietly at Les Grands Chais Monégasques. It’s been there since the early 1900s and somehow still feels like it belongs to another time. You go for a glass of your favorite vintage (usually something like Château Lynch-Bages), which probably turns into a bottle. A 1932 Romanée-Conti rests quietly in the cellar – there to be admired rather than opened. The owner treats you like family, and the charcuterie is simple but perfect.

Something only the locals know…

Le Grand Jardin, a private estate accessible only by boat, set within manicured grounds once walked by Napoleon and his horses. It’s a hidden sanctuary on the island of Sainte-Marguerite. It is also home to the iconic La Guérite, where you can have long, sun-drenched lunches. From there, you can continue the journey across the water to the neighboring island and visit the monks, where centuries-old winemaking traditions still take place. @chantelleoriani

My favorite spot is…

Calanque du Mugel, a natural site sheltered by the Bec de l’Aigle, on the coast south of Cassis. When I’m told to imagine my happy place, this is where my mind goes to. Tucked beneath dramatic cliffs in La Ciotat, it feels like a hidden Mediterranean sanctuary with crystal-clear water, lush botanical gardens and the scent of pine. It’s a rare place where you can swim, wander through lovely greenery and watch the light change over the sea.

For a once-in-a-lifetime experience…

La Colombe d’Or hotel and restaurant, in Saint-Paul-de-Vence near Nice. When you step inside, it feels like entering a living piece of art history. Legends like Pablo Picasso and Henri Matisse once paid for their stays with paintings – and you can still dine there surrounded by original works. It’s not just a hotel or a restaurant, it’s more like a whole atmosphere – a moment suspended in time, where art and the South of France come together in an unforgettable way.

For the best views…

Tuba in Marseille. Set right on an outcrop facing the sea, the craggy rocks with deckchairs strewn about feels raw and effortless, with the Mediterranean stretching endlessly in front of you. Come for sunset, stay for dinner. It’s the kind of view that you’ll want to savor.

The bar to be seen at..

Le Club 55 in Ramatuelle. Effortlessly iconic on Pampelonne beach. Born in 1955 during the filming of Et Dieu… Créa la Femme [And God Created Woman] with Brigitte Bardot, it started as a simple beach shack and became a Riviera legend.

Something only the locals know…

The Sentier du Littoral. A coastal path that quietly runs along the sea in Antibes, leading you to hidden coves and untouched corners you’d never find otherwise. Walk a little, explore, and suddenly you’ll have a secret spot all to yourself. @antoinewaldner

My favorite spot is…

Saint-Paul-de-Vence. It has that perfect mix of art, history and understated glamour that feels quintessentially South of France. I love stopping at my favorite spot, the Fondation Maeght. It’s an incredibly special place where art, architecture, and nature exist in perfect harmony. It feels intimate, inspiring and also connected to the creative soul of the region.

For a once-in-a-lifetime experience…

I would say a long, leisurely lunch at a beach club in Pampelonne Beach, near Saint-Tropez. The kind of beach club (such as new opening Como Le Beauvallon, or La Réserve à la Plage) that turns into sunset cocktails as the day comes to an end.

A slightly more under-the-radar alternative to Saint-Tropez is Ramatuelle, which feels a bit more preserved and discreet. I love Loulou Ramatuelle. You can spend the entire day between lunch and their private beach, and it captures that relaxed-but-chic Riviera vibe perfectly.

The bar to be seen at…

I prefer going to a classic French café for an aperitif on a little square somewhere… but, if you want to feel the old school Saint-Tropez charm and have a view of the port, I would recommend Sénéquier. If you want iconic Riviera energy, then head to Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, of course. It’s an institution, but it never tires. Its bar terrace is legendary and it still maintains an air of quiet luxury, rather than being too loud and sceney.

And my ultimate stop in Saint-Tropez is this little iconic library called Scarlett. Very Saint-Tropez chic, mixing coffee-table books, art, fashion and design objects. The owner always has the best fashion stories about the old Saint-Tropez (the real Saint-Tropez).

For the best views…

Nothing beats driving along the coastal roads between Nice and Monaco, stopping along the way to take in that endless Mediterranean blue water.

Another place I absolutely love in the area is Lily of the Valley, just outside Saint-Tropez. I like that it offers a different rhythm to other places. It’s a bit more discreet and nature-led. It’s perfect for switching off completely while still being in proximity to the buzzier places of the coast. @elodie_graham