Of the many unwritten rules surrounding jewelry, one of the most preposterous is perhaps ‘never mix silver and gold’. Or at least it was, until jewelers gently put it aside to search for new aesthetic horizons gleaming with gold in all its hues and streaked with silver, promising new textures, nuances and lightness.

Buccellati, a jewelry brand that never follows trends or rules, has always mixed different colors of gold to create pieces that are replete with a unique texture and redolent of Renaissance aesthetics. Cue the Ramage collection, featuring bands of the house’s iconic Damascene patterns in white gold, set with diamonds edged by scrolls in yellow gold; or the Hawaii collection, a jolly jumble of hoops in white and yellow gold that cascade from the ears or the neck. In a Buccellati jewel, precious metal is selected to match the colors and ‘soul’ of the gem – and then rose, yellow, white and, more recently, DLC-treated black gold to emphasize the contrasts within a design. “But silver also adds ancient and precious nuances to jewelry creations,” says Andrea Buccellati, the Milan-based maison’s creative director. With its Daisy collection, Buccellati cements its signature color codes, playing with the lightness of silver and gold vermeil, while the large flo