Among the many unwritten jewelry rules, one of the most preposterous is perhaps ‘never mix silver and gold’. At least it was, until jewelers gently put it aside to search for new aesthetic horizons gleaming with gold in all its hues, streaked with silver, promising new textures, nuances and lightness.
Buccellati, a jewelry brand that never follows trends or rules, has always mixed different colors of gold to create pieces that are replete with a unique texture and redolent of Renaissance aesthetics. Cue the Ramage collection, featuring bands of the house’s iconic Damascene patterns in white gold set with diamonds edged by scrolls in yellow gold, or the Hawaii collection – a jolly jumble of hoops in white and yellow gold that cascade from the ears or the neck. In a Buccellati jewel, precious metal is selected to match the colors and soul of the gem – and the use of rose, yellow, white and, more recently, DLC-treated black gold to emphasize the contrasts within a design. “But silver also adds ancient and precious nuances to jewelry creations,” says Andrea Buccellati, the Milan-based maison’s creative director. With its Daisy collection, Buccellati cements its signature color codes, playing with the lightness of silver and gold vermeil, while the large flowers set with colored hardstones breathe a fresh vernal breeze.
A single creation, the ‘Galaxy’ ring, mixing silver and gold, turned Yves Spinelli and Dwyer Kilcollin into an overnight jewelry sensation and launched their brand, Spinelli Kilcollin. The ring is made of interlocking bands – unintentionally reminiscent of traditional Russian wedding rings – that can be stacked as one or worn across multiple fingers, and signaled that one-tone jewelry had become somewhat monotonous a decade ago.
“I think people have become bored with only wearing matching metal colors,” says Bea Bongiasca, the creator of colorful, kitsch-art-like jewels reminiscent of artist Roy Lichtenstein’s pop-art palette. Music stars such as Dua Lipa and Miley Cyrus, as well as top model Bella Hadid and uber-influencer Chiara Ferragni, have all been stacking Bongiasca’s bejeweled creations with gusto, fully appreciating the designer’s unique mix-and-match approach. However, the designer’s starting point came out of necessity. “Firstly, I used silver in my creations because I wanted my jewelry to be light – and silver is lighter than gold. Secondly, with a piece that is half gold, half silver, I can keep the price more accessible.”
More than simply mixing existing hues of gold, the Italian house of Pomellato created its very own: a glowing peach shade of pink gold. The idiosyncratic alloy is juxtaposed with classic yellow and white gold in the ‘Tre Ori’ (Italian for ‘three golds’) Iconica collection, made of chunky interlocking rings. By using different shades of gold in single items, Pomellato can express its colorful soul in sleek designs without using the colored semi-precious stones for which it is renowned.
Eye-popping neon colors in saturated shades of orange and fuchsia are a hallmark of the carabiner-inspired jewelry created by Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga for their brand Eéra. Naturally, the duo did not shy away from mixing white and yellow gold. “It’s a big part of our DNA and what we’re known for,” they say, acknowledging that they have successfully claimed a niche of the jewelry market to satisfy clients who are hungry for an escape in technicolor.
But it is not only jewels that don the metal color-blocking trend. Cartier offers two of its bestselling watches, the ‘Panthère’ and the ‘Ballon Bleu’, in white and yellow gold, and white and rose gold respectively. Such timeless two-tone watches can become a stylish bridge that connects jewelry in different metals, making for a bold, versatile and cohesive wrist stack. It seems that, when it comes to our jewelry choices – and after testing times of sticking to the rules – we are now more than ready to rebel.
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