Layers Loading
With
Adit Priscilla
As falling temperatures cue our cold-weather closets, it’s time to seek out the perfect mix-and-match, new-season pieces, says GEORGIE LUCAS. From beautifully tailored coats to sleek separates, the hottest picks for the cooler months are vintage-inspired, wear-forever investment pieces – as modeled here by South Sudan-born, London-based model ADIT PRISCILLA
After an unseasonably mild fall in many parts of the northern hemisphere, a swift drop in temperature has finally signaled that it is time to pack away our summer clothes and prepare our wardrobes for cooler climes. From enveloping coats to cozy knitwear, fall is the season, sartorially speaking, that brings this writer the most joy. And, for FW23, designers didn’t disappoint. The flavor of nostalgia that has imbued collections for the past few seasons was once more present. “There’s a real wave of nostalgic ’80s style – and it drew me in,” say Helen Broadfoot, NET-A-PORTER’s deputy fashion director. “Pale blue-wash denim staples, boxy blazers with strong shoulder pads, vintage gold jewelry, and great accessories.”
Sleek staples are key, says Broadfoot: “A wool coat – I love oversized tailoring in a classic color like camel, gray, navy or black; a great jacket – try a shearling or leather style, or I’m loving the resurrection of ’80s-style leather bomber jackets; classic knitwear – turtleneck and crew-neck; great boots; plus some strong tailored pants and denim to mix and match through the season.”
A classic coat
As Broadfoot suggests, start with a classic coat. After all, the backbone of a cold-weather closet should always be pieces that deliver warmth. “For me, winter wardrobing is all about smart layering and great outerwear,” says Alice Casely-Hayford, NET-A-PORTER’s content director. “One of my signatures is a killer coat and, this season, there are plenty of statement pieces to choose from. Whether it’s a shearling jacket or a timeless, beautifully cut classic, a bold coat is the perfect way to pull any look together.”
If clean lines and luxe fabrics chime with your sartorial leanings, elevated trenches stormed the runways for FW23. Nour Hammour’s version comes in classic black leather, while Isabel Marant’s ‘Jepson’ style is cast in wool – “the perfect mid-season coat in a refined wool and neutral color,” says Isabel Marant’s studio. “It is an autumnal twist on the archetypal trench coat. Wear it oversized, and pair with cargo pants or a mini silhouette; roll up the sleeves for the finishing touch.”
“A crisp wool BLAZER cut to an oversized silhouette will always look chic… And a SHEARLING coat is the ultimate winter warmer, combining cold-combatting credentials with AESTHETIC impact”
Retro shearling
A shearling coat is the ultimate winter warmer, combining cold-combatting credentials with aesthetic impact. For a slick, full-length version, look to cult Polish designer Magda Butrym’s leather design, trimmed in crisp white shearling; or try Dodo Bar Or’s ‘Lidor’ – the luxurious vintage-inspired design fuses a classic ’70s silhouette with burnished brown faux shearling. Slip it on over denim, or wrap over a micro mini, for Studio-54 glamour. Goldsign’s flight silhouette features classic details that deliver longevity. “Every woman’s wardrobe should have timeless pieces that don’t go out of style,” says Karen Phelps, the brand’s creative director. “Shearling is functional and effortless, and our jacket is a modern essential, constructed to be cherished over a lifetime.” Plus, it can be layered over everything.
Transitional jackets
The combination of icy weather and ferocious indoor heating always serves to underline the value of carefully curated layers. Enter the transitional jacket. A crisp wool blazer cut to an oversized silhouette will always look chic. Dries Van Noten’s gray wool design segues neatly from work days with a pencil skirt to weekends with jeans and a white shirt. Meanwhile, sharply cut leather gives the classic silhouette a fresh update.
If you’re looking to change things up, the return of the bomber jacket offers a slick alternative. Smart enough to be dressed up, the louche silhouette delivers a cool-girl nonchalance. Vintage references reign here, too: “Revisit the ’80s,” suggests Broadfoot. “Try the oversized ’80s leather bomber from The Row, styled back with that classic square-toe ’80s pump and a knee-length pencil skirt.” Or, for top-to-toe style, slip into Chloé’s slick denim bomber and coordinating kick-flare midi skirt.
“For top-to-toe STYLE, slip into Chloé’s slick DENIM bomber and coordinating kick-flare midi SKIRT”
All about denim
On the subject of denim, fashion’s obsession shows no signs of abating. “I love to layer denim,” says Casely-Hayford. “This season, I’ve been dipping my toes into denim midi skirts – with a denim shirt and thick black belt for office chic; or a white T-shirt and bomber jacket for the weekend.” Make LA-based label Agolde your denim go-to, delivering pitch perfect, eminently wearable versions of every denim silhouette. “Denim is easy to style, dressed up or down,” says Phelps. “It’s a wardrobe staple – and a new classic.” Where once you might have shied away from top-to-toe denim, now is the moment to embrace it. “There’s a feel for full denim suits,” says Phelps. “Styling wide legs, like our ‘Harper’, with an oversized shirt, like our ‘Camryn’, layered with a tee, creates a great stacking moment.”
Staple separates
Beyond power pieces, it’s always the seemingly ‘basic’ closet staples that work hardest. Start with knitwear – a skinny turtleneck is a style you’ll wear with everything, so keep it as simple as possible. Think fine-knit, neutral colors, and a classic turtleneck shape – Petar Petrov and Chloé deliver excellent luxe versions. A chunky knit, too, should be on your wish list – retro notes are every editor’s hot tip. Try Khaite’s ‘Amaris’ oversized turtleneck sweater knitted in a Fair Isle pattern, or Burberry’s chunky ‘Argyle’ cardigan in vintage mustard jacquard knit.
A white shirt, too, is a season essential – good news since most of us have at least one in our wardrobe. “The white shirt is having a moment,” says Casely-Hayford, “although I’m not sure it ever really goes out of fashion. There were beautiful iterations on the FW23 catwalks – from Proenza Schouler and Bottega Veneta to Balmain, Loewe and The Row. Whatever your style – crisp and clean or relaxed and slouchy – there’s a white shirt out there for you.” Wear yours with love-worn denim; or, for instant office-ready chic, a sleek midi skirt. Pared-back is the answer here – see The Row’s ‘Kassie’ – a minimal pencil skirt cut in sublime wool – or Gabriela Hearst’s ‘Wesley’, in luxe leather, is another FW23 favorite.
“DENIM is easy to style, dressed up or down. It’s a wardrobe STAPLE – and a new CLASSIC”
Investment footwear
Don’t overlook footwear – the right pair of shoes has the power to make or break a look. And this season sees a return to classic, dependable shoes – though that doesn’t mean scrimping on elegance. Loafers are a popular choice that also deliver on longevity – invest in a black style with timeless details, such as Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Loafer’ or Toteme’s sleek loafers. Alternatively, reach for a pair of pumps – The Row’s ‘Lana’ shoes are future classics, as are Toteme’s ‘The Sharp’ kitten-heel slingbacks.
Finally, if you invest in one pair of boots this season, make it a knee-high pair, like Paris Texas’ ‘The Stiletto Boot’. The slick, pared-back design has enduring appeal and, crucially, will go with everything in your wardrobe. “This timeless icon exudes less-is-more elegance,” says Annamaria Brivio, the brand’s founder and creative director. “The boots’ 85mm heels are perfect for transitioning from day to night, while the sleek design makes them a fall staple that can be styled liberally: with a maxi wool knit dress during the day or a leather miniskirt at night.” And that’s exactly the kind of versatility that should underpin every great closet investment.
RELATED READING
SHOP THE SHOOT
22 items