Discover McQueen’s Sleek And Empowering SS25 Collection
The SS25 collection from McQueen delivers bold silhouettes, gothic drama and impeccable tailoring
“The banshee is rooted in the history of McQueen,” writes Seán McGirr, creative director at Alexander McQueen, in the show notes for SS25, his second collection for the iconic house; “but it’s also a story that I grew up with, so feels deeply personal to me.” Shown at Paris’s prestigious art school, L’École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, McGirr’s description summarizes the spirit of the collection, which fuses his fresh vision with the dark romance for which the brand is known and loved. For inspiration, McGirr delved into the house’s early archives: Banshee was Lee McQueen’s second show, for FW94, where Irish folklore provided the inspiration for a collection that encapsulated the combination of sharp tailoring and ethereal drama – a show that would define the now much loved aesthetic of his then fledgling brand.
Every detail of the SS25 show was conceived to deliver impact. Theater designer Tom Scutt created the space – the imposing entryway and steel plate path providing a fitting backdrop for the collection. As the looks emerged, the lights were dim, the runway illuminated, dry ice rising. A piece of writing by award-winning Irish author, Eimear McBride opened the show notes, evoking the spirit of the banshee and setting an otherworldly scene. McGirr’s banshee, he explains, is more than a mythical Irish spirit who heralds death. “For me, she has come to represent something real and potent now. The idea of someone who is feeling and forthright; someone who can be seen as a guiding force.” The designs that followed evoked this compelling brief.
“Sharp, twisted tailoring subverts the traditions of British suiting; the look is classic McQueen – with strong shoulders, structured rounded silhouettes and nipped waists
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Three tailored looks from the runway collection – razor-sharp jackets and figure-skimming skirts – are now available at NET-A-PORTER, alongside a series of dresses from the collection. The show notes detail how the sharp, twisted tailoring subverts the traditions of British suiting; the look is classic McQueen – with strong shoulders, structured rounded silhouettes and nipped waists. The utilitarian aesthetic is imbued with military details – a flash of red, a row of buttons – which feel both true to the house’s history and perfect for now. Mini hemlines are perfect for SS25, while a leather two-piece combines a sharply cut pencil skirt with a deconstructed riff on the leather jacket.
For all the theater of the runway show, these are pieces designed to be worn. The palette pivoted on jet black and ivory, mixed with red, khaki green and high-impact metallics. Beautiful wool tailoring sits alongside black nappa leather. And then there are the accessories – the T-bar satchel bag is a future classic, crafted in leather; while chunky sandals and sculptural platform shoes are the perfect finishing touches for the collection’s power pieces. The closing words of the show notes are an apt encapsulation of the inspiration – “A figure fortified; stood tall.” Power dressing for the modern McQueen wearer.
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