The working wardrobe: Cecilie Thorsmark
With a background in business and a flair for fashion, it was always CECILIE THORSMARK’s ambition to analyze the fashion landscape from a different perspective. She talks to MEGAN LOGUE about the importance of sustainability, her penchant for a minimalist Scandi style and how she’s reinvented Copenhagen Fashion Week during the toughest of times
Whether you consider it a coincidence or kismet, it is remarkable that, while she was studying at business school, Cecilie Thorsmark, the now-CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week, wrote her master’s thesis on – you guessed it – Copenhagen Fashion Week. Thorsmark laughs looking back on that prophetic decision and admits that, while her focus may have been business, she always found a way to put a more personal spin on her studies. “I shaped my own curriculum. Any time we had an assignment, I always chose to do case studies on the fashion industry – it made everything more interesting.”
Growing up, there was no ‘eureka’ moment when Thorsmark realized her future lay in fashion, but her family, which boasts ballet dancers, architects and furniture designers, provided a rich cultural milieu and some of her earliest memories are of exploring her grandmother’s “marvellous wardrobe” – as a former seamstress and fashion teacher, she had an enviable closet. “There were countless dresses and I vividly remember she had pumps in every color of the rainbow.”
It was Thorsmark’s forthright decision to analyze the fashion landscape from a different perspective that brought her to the attention of Eva Kruse, her predecessor at Copenhagen Fashion Week and current chief executive of Global Fashion Agenda. Kruse – who invited Thorsmark to join her team, first at Copenhagen Fashion Week and later Global Fashion Agenda – became something of a mentor, leaving an indelible impression on her high-flying protégée. “Her ambitions were sky-high, and she always got the results. Sometimes, when I’m making tough decisions, I still ask myself, ‘What would Eva do?’”
Fast-forward to 2021 and, since taking the helm at Copenhagen Fashion Week, Thorsmark has succeeded in turning what was admittedly a relatively minor event into one of the most highly anticipated and esteemed occasions on the fashion calendar, renowned for an exuberant atmosphere and, most notably, its impeccable eco-credentials. With a résumé as glittering as Thorsmark’s, selecting a career highlight can be tricky, but, when pushed, she admits she’s most proud of the ambitious three-year sustainability action plan she and her team have laid out for Copenhagen Fashion Week (from 2023 onwards, any brand hoping to take part will be required to meet a stringent list of minimum standards relating to environmental and social responsibilities).
It would appear that Thorsmark never stopped working that thesis. She continues to challenge the purpose of Copenhagen Fashion Week, ultimately raising it to ever greater heights. Read on to discover the industry disruptor’s career – and style – secrets.
“I’ve proved that fashion week can help drive positive change within the industry
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Push the boundaries
In 2018, when the role of CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week became available, I didn’t intend to apply for it. I was working as the communications director at the Global Fashion Agenda, channeling my passion for sustainability, and I viewed fashion weeks as the exact opposite of that – inherently unsustainable enterprises. Ultimately, though, that’s what motivated me to go for the job; the fact that I could see the ways in which fashion weeks were outdated and their potential for change. At the time, I found them really insensitive and out of sync with the world around us, but I knew that they had huge potential to showcase the best new fashion – and in the most responsible way. Together with my fantastic team, I’ve proved that fashion week can help drive positive change within the industry.
Rise to the challenge
It would be a lie if I said organizing fashion week during a pandemic has been a piece of cake. Restrictions came into place in Copenhagen during March 2020, and our next fashion week was set for August. We had to figure out how to take fashion week digital – a question the industry has been asking itself for years – within the space of six weeks. It was a task that, at any other time, would have taken us six months or even six years! Developing that hybrid model was tough, but it was also incredibly rewarding because it allowed us to reach a much larger audience.
Make your mark
From the moment I began my role as CEO, I wanted to streamline our focus. Quality, not quantity, was central to my vision, and I decided I would rather whittle the schedule right down and only show and work with the absolute best brands and coolest partners. I also had an extensive international network from my years working at the Global Fashion Agenda, so the team and I set about engaging more high-level press, buyers and personalities, inviting them to join our advisory board and show committee. I think that made a big difference to how Copenhagen Fashion Week was perceived from then on.
“When it comes to accessories and jewelry, I always go minimal; I’ll finish my outfit with a pair of earrings and a necklace or two
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Strike a balance
I consider my style to be quite masculine and androgynous. However, I know those aren’t typically the words that spring to mind when people see me. I think it’s because my appearance and mannerisms are quite feminine, and I have always looked to offset them with the clothes I wear. The coolest fashion icons – women like Charlotte Gainsbourg, Patti Smith and Fran Lebowitz – all have that quality or edge, and they really inspire me. Obviously, my favorite designers are homegrown labels from Denmark, Sweden and Norway – I predominantly wear Scandinavian brands – but I also love international names like Khaite and The Row. When it comes to accessories and jewelry, I always go minimal; I’ll finish my outfit with a pair of earrings, a necklace or two and my engagement ring – that’s it.
Dress with purpose
My nine-to-five look remains pretty steady day to day; you’ll typically see me in a blazer and jeans or a slouchy suit. And, while it’s undeniable that these outfits are comfortable, my off-duty look is even more laid-back. I have two kids and a dog to walk, so when I’m at home, I really love getting into my sweatpants. I even rework my signature bun to make it a little looser. Clothes can really impact your mindset – that’s why I loved finally coming back into the office after the pandemic and putting on my heels and suits and makeup again. It instantly made me feel more competent and on top of things.
Keep it simple
To me, the most beautiful face is a natural one, so that’s what I aspire to with my daily look and why I tend to stick to organic products. I love a good face oil and serum – basically anything that is deeply moisturizing and gives you a glowing, dewy look. I do wear makeup, but I always choose the most natural-looking products.