How To Get Your Summer City Skincare Routine Right

Summer is the time to rethink product textures. “It’s better to use a lighter cream, such as a lotion or gel formula, during summer,” says cosmetic doctor Dr. Anne Mendelovici, who works between London and Paris. “This is especially key if you use a thick sunscreen, since you want to avoid blocking pores, which can ultimately lead to breakouts.” If you’re someone who is prone to shininess all year round, it’s more difficult to prevent it when you’re in a humid and warm environment, so Dr. Mendelovici suggests using a mattifying powder to help hide excess shine, as well as cleansing products that contain glycolic acid. “It encourages cell renewal but also reveals younger-looking skin.” At the same time, she cautions that using too many products with potentially irritating active ingredients (such as glycolic acid) can set you up for sunburn, so it’s best to use only one to two actives within your skincare routine and to lay off any aggressive products – such as retinols – for one week before you plan on spending more time outdoors.

“Air-conditioning units often dehydrate skin, making it appear flaky and dull, and exaggerating signs of aging,” says New York-based dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman. “Consider using a humidifier [in your home or office], as it helps regulate and maintain the optimal humidity level for the skin barrier to preserve its moisture.” Moisturizing twice a day is also key for sufficient hydration. “Even if you have oily, acne-prone skin, it’s important to apply a moisturizer that locks in moisture within the lipid barrier,” says Dr. Engelman. “A key ingredient to look for is hyaluronic acid, as it can hold nearly 1,000 times its weight in water and penetrates deeply to replenish moisture lost from the summer sun and air-conditioned rooms.” Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is another essential skin-saving ingredient. “It works to minimize pore size and nourish dry skin. It is also anti-inflammatory, so it calms irritated, sensitive skin that might react to the fluctuating temperatures of the outdoor heat and air-conditioned buildings.”

All the experts we spoke to agreed that, even if you only have time to apply one product in the morning, make it a sunscreen – and one with a minimum SPF of 30. “For anyone with melasma, sun exposure can trigger its onset, so applying an SPF100 is highly recommended,” says Dr. Mendelovici. Frequency matters as much as potency, too. In fact, it’s essential to re-apply your SPF every two hours to get the level of protection it says on the bottle. Even if you’re office-bound during the day, aging UVA rays can penetrate glass, so look for a powder sunscreen formula to top up easily over makeup. “Powder sunscreen is ideal for those who are acne-prone because it’s non-comedogenic, so it won’t clog pores like other sunscreens often do. The powder works to absorb excess oil and sweat, too, so it’s great for applying over makeup to mattify your complexion on a hot day,” says Dr. Engelman. “I usually recommend using powdered sunscreen in conjunction with liquid sunscreen because it can be difficult to fully protect your skin with a powder formula alone.”

“Antioxidants play an important role in combatting damaging pollutants and free radicals produced by UV exposure, air quality and extreme humidity,” says Dr. Engelman. “Layering vitamin C and E serums underneath your SPF is an expert secret for clear, bright, healthy skin all summer long – because they work synergistically to provide even greater protection against UV damage. Plus, applying vitamin C will counteract free-radical damage and serves as a barrier that prevents SPF-related breakouts, while vitamin E absorbs the energy from UV light, preventing free-radical damage to skin.”

However vigilant you may be with your SPF, it’s nearly inevitable that some form of pigmentation – faint or visible – will crop up, as an SPF doesn’t block out 100% of UV rays. “Opt for chemical peels and exfoliants – both are great methods to actively brighten and minimize the appearance of dark spots,” says Dr. Engelman. “They also work to fight other symptoms of aging skin, and give the skin an overall healthier, younger appearance.” While it’s best to save professional peels for cooler months, you can still treat and prevent pigmentation with dedicated products during the summer – but stick to using them at night only, and a maximum of one to two times a week. We love La Prairie’s brilliant 3-Minute Peel for a fast but very effective skin-sloughing treatment, or try Révive’s superb Masque de Brilliance, which combines glycolic, salicylic and lactic acids for a more refined, polished finish.

Don’t underestimate the power of a refreshing glass of water to maintain your skin’s healthy glow when humidity and drying air-conditioning are at play. “My best advice to protect skin from the side effects of air-conditioning and pollution is to drink at least two liters of water every day,” says Dr. Mendelovici. “That, together with a thorough skin-cleanse, a vitamin C-based serum and applying a lightweight, alcohol-free moisturizer twice a day, will keep your skin healthy and glowing in the urban heat.”