Fine Jewelry

How To Curate A Wear-Forever Fine-Jewelry Collection

L-R: necklace, Foundrae; earrings, Anita Ko; watch, Cartier; bracelet, Suzanne Kalan; ring, Spinelli Kilcollin; bracelet, Lauren Rubinski

If you’re seeking fine jewels that feel contemporary now but will last a lifetime, listen to jewelry tastemaker WILL KAHN, who shares the best way to choose modern pieces with everlasting appeal

  • ANITA KO
    18-karat gold diamond hoop earrings
    $7,300.00
  • SUZANNE KALAN
    18-karat white gold diamond tennis bracelet
    $19,000.00

Fine jewels are investment pieces that last forever, but it can be tricky to navigate the process of choosing designs that won’t date. There are, however, a few fundamentals that should underpin your search. Firstly, mixing metals is not only OK, it’s highly advisable – mixing silver, yellow gold, white gold and rose gold feels more layered and natural, and will give you a highly versatile collection. In terms of gold quality, the higher the karat weight, the purer the gold; and the purer the gold, the greater the investment. Where diamonds are concerned, VSI-grade diamonds can be a great starting point for your collection. VSI stands for ‘very slightly included’, meaning that any imperfections are only visible with a microscope – the perfect starting point for beginner investors.

Classic design codes are important, too, but your pieces should always have something ‘extra’ going on – after all, jewelry should add a special touch that makes your overall look come to life. Let’s also remember that layering is the look right now: wear a bracelet with your watch, put all the necklaces on, and be brave with mixing and matching myriad pieces together. But remember: these designs should also be individually striking, so they can stand alone should the trend shift.

  • FOUNDRAE
    + NET SUSTAIN Strength 18-karat recycled gold diamond necklace
    $4,700.00
  • SPINELLI KILCOLLIN
    Cancer set of four 18-karat gold and sterling silver ring
    $2,900.00
    Select a Size
    5
    6
    7 - low stock
    7 1/2 - out of stock
    8 - low stock
    8 1/2 - out of stock
  • LAUREN RUBINSKI
    14-karat gold necklace
    $4,830.00

While each jewelry collection should be personal to its owner, there are some hero pieces that belong in every jewelry box. A medallion necklace is a great foundation for necklace layering, for example – Foundrae’s chain system lets you add multiple medals and adapt the length of the drop, making it easy to switch up your layered look every day. A stacking ring by Spinelli Kilcollin, meanwhile, offers a next-level look with the ease of just one ring.

For evening events, ‘party earrings’ are crucial. Semi-precious jewels offer playful volume here, so explore stones such as quartz, spinels and aquamarines to complement a cocktail dress

Pearl and hoop earrings are also a must: Carolina Bucci’s heart-shape hoops will add a fierce accent to each outfit, while Sophie Bille Brahe’s modern take on pearl earrings lend a chic touch to everything from knitwear to slinky slip dresses. For evening events, ‘party earrings’ are crucial. Semi-precious jewels offer playful volume here, so explore stones such as quartz, tourmalines, spinels and aquamarines to complement a cocktail dress.

  • CAROLINA BUCCI
    Cuore 18-karat gold hoop earrings
    $2,190.00
  • SOPHIE BILLE BRAHE
    Escalier de Perle 14-karat gold pearl earrings
    $2,840.00
  • ANITA KO
    Huggies 18-karat gold diamond earrings
    $1,450.00
  • MELISSA JOY MANNING
    Wishbone 14-karat recycled gold pearl earrings
    $236.00

For the wrist, a gold-chain bracelet is a steadfast staple: Lauren Rubinski’s 14-karat styles are an expert choice, with hollow links making them featherlight to wear. Every jewelry collection also needs a tennis bracelet, but it doesn’t have to feature a traditional line of diamonds – instead, consider a stretchy style or one featuring unusual diamond cuts. This is a piece that will take your look from day to night for years to come.

Watches are also bona fide forever pieces. While a smart phone might be the most convenient time-telling device, it’s worth investing in a chic timepiece, too. Jackie O – perhaps one of the most eternal arbiters of classic yet contemporary style in her day – wore a Cartier ‘Tank’ design, and watches from a high-end maison such as Cartier can even appreciate in value. But investment aside, iconic styles from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Hermès Timepieces will always deliver an elegant aesthetic that endures for decades.

See more from Will Khan on Instagram @willsnotebook

  • CARTIER
    Tank Française 25.05mm medium stainless steel and diamond watch
    $10,100.00
  • LAUREN RUBINSKI
    Large 14-karat gold bracelet
    $2,513.00

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