The Working Wardrobe: Elza Wandler
Her namesake brand, Wandler, is known for its line of boldly colored cult bags, which have attracted an all-star lineup of fashion followers around the world. Here, the label’s founder and creative director ELZA WANDLER talks to MEGAN LOGUE about her love affair with clothes and accessories – and a new-found passion for skincare products
Since launching almost five years ago, Amsterdam-based brand Wandler has amassed a devoted following of fashion insiders. In fact, in its first year of business alone, the label’s cult ‘Hortensia’ handbag (which no doubt dominated your Instagram feed) quickly cemented Wandler’s status as the go-to label for accessories that strike the perfect balance between classic and contemporary.
But despite the brand’s instant (and Insta) success, a career in fashion wasn’t the obvious choice for founder and creative director Elza Wandler, who credits her bohemian mother’s disinterest in shopping with sparking her own love affair with clothes and accessories. Every six months, from the age of four onwards, she was given the opportunity to select a new wardrobe from a variety of catalogues the family kept around the house. “I always had very strong opinions about what I did or, more specifically, did not want to wear,” recalls the designer, who acknowledges, laughing, that these early years were surprisingly formative. “I would cut out my favorite pieces and compile them in mood boards – it’s not too dissimilar to how I create a collection nowadays.”
After initially studying photography, Wandler realized that design was the medium through which she could most effectively express herself. She studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute and went on to hone her skills at Levi’s Made & Crafted. “That was where I really grew as a designer and learnt all the things they don’t teach you in school. Like how to make commercially viable pieces, how to market them and, most importantly, how to work in a team.” This last lesson was a particularly powerful revelation: “I realized you can have a group of strong individuals with strong opinions, but still [be] respectful of one another. All these things prepared me for the reality of starting my own label.”
Now, having made her first foray into ready-to-wear with a covetable collection of jeans and leather pants, the prodigious designer is looking forward to celebrating another exciting milestone and marking the brand’s fifth birthday. Here, she shares her career and style secrets…
“What I love about Wandler is that our pieces are instantly recognizable in a more discreet way – if you know, you know
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Stand out
My design process is pretty intuitive. I don’t start out with a fixed idea of what I want to create. I’m my own target customer, so my designs develop in a more personal and organic way. My style is elegant and feminine, and because of this I like to spice it up by adding interesting silhouettes in the form of bags and shoes. I don’t like pieces with brand names splashed across them; what I want from fashion is something specific and different. However, what I love about Wandler is that our pieces are instantly recognizable in a more discreet way – if you know, you know. That’s why shape is so integral to my designs – they help make Wandler pieces utterly distinct.
“Whether I’m buying a handbag, shoes or jewelry, I strongly believe that I’d rather save up and invest in something beautiful and built to last than purchase a piece that will fall apart in a few months
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Dress for the occasion
When it comes to putting together outfits every day, I don’t have a formula – I’m inspired by what I’m doing and how I’m feeling that day. For some reason, when I’m designing, I keep my own look very simple. I’ll go for an outfit that’s totally neutral. We make a lot of samples and I constantly test pieces on myself – and everyone else in the office – and I don’t want my own clothes to serve as a distraction. However, I love getting dressed up for days when I’m not in the studio. I’m a fan of Khaite, Maximilian and Jil Sander; and I have quite a few printed pieces from Marni. For winter, I might pair a printed Dodo Bar Or bodysuit with denim and then, in summer, go for something a little more feminine, like Cecilie Bahnsen’s voluminous dresses.
Master the art of accessorizing
My top criteria when it comes to accessories is quality. Whether I’m buying a handbag, shoes or jewelry, I strongly believe that I’d rather save up and invest in something beautiful and built to last than purchase a piece that will fall apart in a few months. In my opinion, accessories can inject personality into any look, so, for me, they’ve always been a key investment. The reason Wandler began with handbags is because I wanted to create truly standout designs that were distinctive but wouldn’t overpower the women wearing them. I found experimenting with shape the most effective way to do this. Ultimately, it’s all about finding balance. I love color, so if I’m wearing an all-black outfit, I’d always add a bright bag or shoes. However, if my outfit is colorful already, I’ll temper it with luxurious tan and black accessories.
“When it comes to beauty, I almost use too many products to even keep track of. I got really into skincare during the pandemic
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Create rituals
When it comes to beauty, I almost use too many products to even keep track of. I got really into skincare during the pandemic, particularly the seven-step Korean skincare routine. It actually doesn’t even take up that much time, maximum 10 minutes, but you have to commit before it becomes a real habit. It sounds like a lot of effort, but I really enjoy it – it’s my thing. I love Dr. Barbara Sturm products, too – I use her cleanser, day cream and sun drops, along with Ren Clean Skincare’s natural tonic.