How Johanna Ortiz Uses The Transportive Power Of Print
Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz has deep ties to her local community and culture, utilizing traditional techniques to craft elegant pieces that are feminine and festive
Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz understands the Latin lifestyle better than most, and her collections are always infused with so much personality and color that you are instantly transported to an out-of-office state of mind. Cue the label’s pre-fall 2023 collection, featuring palm-tree prints, vivid jungle-inspired colors, and sweeping maxi dresses that are ideal for a tropical jaunt or everyday festiveness – just looking at them invites you to celebrate life.
What makes the sun-soaked brand so special, though, is how rooted in community and artisanal craftsmanship it is. The fashion label was founded in Cali, Colombia, in 2003 and more than 90% of the house’s production is still based in the city. What started out as a swimwear brand sold locally in Colombia is now an international lifestyle label (it also creates homeware and accessories) that’s stocked in 30 countries – yet Colombian culture remains at the heart of the brand. Indeed, since 2019, Johanna Ortiz has collaborated with 23 different indigenous communities and artisanal associations on its collections, and has a long-standing commitment to traditional craftsmanship through these partnerships. “Contributing to my JO family, these communities, and my country define success and show that fashion can positively impact lives,” says the designer, who is dedicated to supporting change at a grassroots level.
“Contributing to my JO family, these communities, and my country define success and show that fashion can positively impact lives
”Johanna Ortiz
In 2016 she founded a training program called Escuela Johanna Ortiz, which offers vulnerable local people the opportunity to learn couture-level seamstress and embroidery skills in a supported environment – one that also includes a monthly salary, mental-health support and practical advice. Not only does this program afford people the opportunity to upskill, it also ensures the protection of local craftsmanship and traditions – two elements that sit at the very heart of every Johanna Ortiz collection.
Inca culture, in particular, is celebrated in the pre-fall 2023 collection, which is rich in symbolism and tradition. The design team was inspired by the magic of the Andes, and the color palette, prints, and silhouettes are all influenced by the landscape and local traditions of this magnificent mountain range. Stripes represent traveling along the great Inca roads, hand-painted cross stitches are a nod to ancient Peruvian textiles, and leaf motifs depict the region’s dense jungles.
When it comes to colors, the palette is drawn from Inca textiles and is expansive, comprising vivid pinks, reds, muted browns, burgundies, lush jades, rust oranges, emerald greens, ocean blues and golden ochre (this one is a tribute to Inti, the Inca Sun God), along with white and black. The palm tree is always a key motif for Johanna Ortiz, and, as ever, she draws inspiration from tropical canopies. However, this season, unexpected color combinations ensure the depiction of a jungle scene is more painterly and elevated.
“Even though the prints and textures are rich and maximalist, the silhouettes are always classic
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The collection also includes 3D stitching and rich textures to celebrate the Inca Quipu – a tradition in which Incas used knots in strings to communicate and record messages. Peruvian pom poms, tassels and raffia hemlines are also used to reflect the rich culture of the Andes.
The brand also collaborated closely with artisans from the Eperara Siapidara community; talented crafters who are now affected by internal displacement from ongoing violence. Together they created bags from traditional paja tetera (a native palm fiber) using ancestral weaving techniques, as well as beautiful tote bags with leather straps, which are made from panels of traditional San Jacinto hammocks.
A core styling belief at Johanna Ortiz is that the clothes you pack in your suitcase need to work for a wide range of plans and be wearable in cities, too. So, even though the prints and textures are rich and maximalist, the silhouettes are always classic and remain relatively unchanged in each collection. Think button-down shirts, wrap skirts, and maxi dresses that simply require a love of traditional craft rather than a tropical setting.
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