Travel

PORTER Postcard: The Dolomites

Dramatic and ethereal, the Dolomites have soared in popularity in recent years, but there is more to the north-Italian mountain range than you see on social media. So how do you curate a high-altitude escapade that best suits you? KATIE BERRINGTON discovers where to stay, dine, shop and rejuvenate

Lifestyle

A jagged range of the Eastern Alps, the Dolomites offer one of Europe’s most spectacular landscapes. With incredible, towering rocky peaks rising out of rolling alpine meadows, it is no wonder they are recognized with Unesco World Heritage status. There is year-round magic here: verdant hikes and wild lake swimming mark the spring/summer season, while in winter the snowy valleys come to life with the hum of skiers headed for world-class slopes. But whatever the season, there is a multitude of wellness experiences, a unique cultural blend of Italian, German, Austrian and local Ladin that makes for decadent dining, and masterpiece sunsets illuminating the rocks in vivid hues.

Whether you’re relaxing in the spa, the pool, your suite or your own personal hot tub, Lefay Resort & Spa promises an exquisite escape in the lap of luxury

The hotel scene

The otherworldly Dolomiti landscape of sheer cliffs, lakes and vineyard-lined valleys is scattered with storybook towns and glorious resorts. At the latter, plush interiors and state-of-the-art facilities rival the awe-inspiring environment for filling guests’ time. Lefay Resort & Spa is sequestered between pine-forested peaks in Pinzolo, conveniently close to the Madonna di Campiglio ski area. A striking glass-and-timber structure that appears after a particularly picturesque journey, guests sink into luxuriously adorned lounges with fairytale views from the moment they arrive. The dedicated wellness spaces are vast and the suites are exceptional, with the very best offering your own personal spa areas – from bathroom saunas and jacuzzis to rooftop whirlpools.

Perched on a hill in the heart of the Dolomites, Castel Badia is an 11th-century castle steeped in history

Beyond the contemporary or chalet-style retreats, there is the stunning and ancient Castel Badia. With a thousand years of history to delve into, it was originally built as a fortress and then became Tyrol’s first female Benedictine convent, but has now been reinvigorated as a 28-room hotel, with original frescoes, age-old stonework combined with sleek, modern interiors. Its extraordinary spa turns former monastic cells into treatment rooms, while an ancient herbal garden and outdoor heated pools overlooking the mountains blend centuries-old healing traditions with perfectly luxurious living.

Saltus is a spectacular sanctuary high above the city of Bolzano, offering magnificent – and ubiquitous – views of the surrounding Dolomites

The Dolomites have also become a popular destination for families, combining Italy’s delight in young visitors with experiences that every generation can enjoy. AKI Family Resort Plose is a paradise for children and adults alike, with every detail ensuring that it feels like a proper vacation for all (from the fantastic kids’ club and family relaxation areas to an alpaca farm and the adults-only forest spa, set far enough in the trees to be totally tranquil). The warm, elemental design celebrates the natural surroundings. Think lots of beautiful timber and panoramic windows so that you can all enjoy the view as much as possible.

And there are boutique hotel options too. Saltus is a cool, in-the-know sanctuary of a hotel located above the city of Bolzano. Helmed by three women – sisters Claudia, Nadja and their mother Hedwig – its residence amongst the treetops means that a dip in the cloud-skimming infinity pool at sunset is a must. In its traditional restaurant, the chefs work with local farmers and the onsite gardens to craft beautiful and nourishing menus that change daily. A rotating program of exhibitions collaborate with artisans from the area too.

  • LISA YANG
    Gudrun Fair Isle cashmere turtleneck sweater
    $1,465.00
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  • OLIVER PEOPLES
    + Khaite 1974C D-frame acetate sunglasses
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    90's Pinch Waist Crop high-rise straight-leg jeans
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Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler serves hyper-local, seasonal Alpine cuisine that is a veritable feast for the eyes, as well as the palate

The food

A blend of influences makes for hearty but refined mountain gastronomy. Expect menus to be inspired by local Ladin culture and to span South Tyrolean meats and vegetables, perhaps including traditional knödel dumplings, ravioli and apple strudel, alongside a local pinot bianco or pinot noir. The most thrilling way to dine is in the mountain huts known as rifugios, with several offering a gourmet upgrade to traditional skiing sustenance. Sciare con Gusto is the standout, where Michelin-starred chefs bring a signature dish to specific huts on the slopes, so that skiers can swoop between the spots tasting their specialties.

For a special occasion and the buzziest table to book, Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler is a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in a historic Brunico villa, serving hyper-local menus showcasing everything the mountains have to offer.

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    Audrey calf-hair clutch
    $4,900.00
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    + Audemars Piguet Vintage 1990s Mini Round Dress hand-wound 18-karat gold, diamond and sapphire watch (6.5" wrist)
    $55,150.00
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    Petra 100 velvet pumps
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The look

Fashion and functionality have to synchronize, when planning a vacation in the mountains. Look to Moncler Grenoble for high-fashion, high-performance skiwear in sleek silhouettes. To pack a punch against the icy backdrop, Goldbergh serves vivid colorways and striking prints to command attention on the slopes. And for après-ski, it’s all about layering: form-fitting base layers under chunky, frost-defying knits and, ideally, with a snug We Norwegians balaclava on top.

  • MONCLER GRENOBLE
    Caurel shearling-trimmed GORE-TEX® down ski jacket
    $5,875.00
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    Gianna crystal-embellished stretch-jersey ski top
    $305.00
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    Pudder scarf-effect ribbed mohair and wool-blend snood
    $140.00
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    GORE-TEX® shell straight-leg ski pants
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Guests enjoying NET-A-PORTER’s Missoni In The Mountains escape in the Dolomites
Lefay and Saltus offer the most incredible spa facilities and wellness treatments – perfect for an afternoon of post-ski R&R

The wellness

While many flock to the mountains for high-octane adventure, wellness experiences are equally enticing in the Dolomites, thanks to traditional alpine healing therapies, natural thermal resources, and an array of excellent spas.

Lefay’s sprawls across three storeys of the resort, a labyrinth of saunas (there are no fewer than nine), pools (indoor, outdoor, saltwater, ice, whirl), fitness studios, relaxation rooms and gardens. At Saltus, the intimate Forest Spa has a hay sauna, steam room and rooftop relaxation space, while personal wellness programs can be tailored for guests from the weekly schedule of yoga, Pilates, Qi Gong, forest bathing and meditation.

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    Ellen cotton-jersey hoodie
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    + Auralee ribbed organic cotton-blend socks
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    Always Contrast two-tone stretch-jersey leggings
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The activity

Come winter, a world-class network of slopes attracts the ski set for adrenaline-fueled antics. Cortina d’Ampezzo, ‘the Queen of the Dolomites’, played host to the Winter Games earlier this year and combines great skiing, awe-inspiring landscapes, a vibrant après scene and luxury shopping. If culinary excellence is high on your priority list, then Alta Badia is where you’ll find Sciare con Gusto, alongside an easy-to-access and gentler circuit of slopes (perhaps fortunate after or amid a decadent lunch). Val Gardena is worth considering too, particularly for more adventurous skiers. But the mountains are not only for the cold-weather months, you’ll soon be planning a return spring/summer sojourn to hike, swim and marvel at the scenery as it bursts into radiant bloom.

The shopping

The South Tyrolean capital city of Bolzano is known as the ‘gateway’ to the Dolomites. Fortunate, then, that SkyAlps now flies directly into the city from European destinations, making for an effortless route into the mountains. The picturesque Old Town boasts boutique-lined arcaded streets of medieval architecture, where an afternoon can be happily spent perusing in the atmospheric shadows of the surrounding peaks. In Cortina d’Ampezzo, Corso Italia is perhaps the region’s most exclusive shopping street, featuring flagships from many of the major fashion houses, along with luxury curated stores.

Lots of the villages and towns also have enchanting Christmas markets, which are worth a wander for gift-shopping, selling everything from artisanal cheeses to jars of wild mountain fruit preserves and delicate alpine chocolates.

The interiors inspiration

Emulate the enveloping warmth of a mountain abode by draping an armchair and the end of the bed with a sumptuous cashmere blanket, like Brunello Cucinelli’s beautifully soft throws and blankets.

  • BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
    Ribbed-knitted cashmere throw
    $3,860.00
  • TRUDON
    Gabriel scented candle, 2.8kg
    $1,115.00
  • JIA JIA HOME
    Onyx chess set
    $1,240.00
  • SIX THE RESIDENCE
    Mohair-velvet wood pouf
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Alta Badia is a breathtaking Dolomite valley renowned for world-class skiing, scenic hiking, rich Ladin culture and exceptional gourmet cuisine