Cult Fashion Photographer Ronan Mckenzie On Creating A Closet That Truly Serves You
Known for her candid yet composed and always-inclusive imagery, RONAN MCKENZIE shares her career secrets, what she wants from the clothes hanging in her closet and why Isabel Marant is her go-to label, no matter the occasion
In the seven years since she first picked up a camera, London-born Ronan Mckenzie has quickly gone from industry upstart to one of the most in-demand names at work today, particularly in the realm of fashion photography. Yet, her route into photography was entirely atypical. Mckenzie has never been formally trained in the medium, she was working as an assistant stylist in 2014, when she realized that her true passion lay behind the camera. Thanks to her innate ability to make her subjects feel seen and, crucially, comfortable, Mckenzie quickly began booking campaigns and, in 2018, secured a career-defining job photographing Serena Williams for the cover of Teen Vogue.
While photography is still her primary discipline, the last few years have seen Mckenzie branch out into new territory, exploring – and mastering – new disciplines. From launching a clothing line, Selasi, to holding solo art shows and founding a multifunctional creative space in her native North London, aptly named Home, Mckenzie has proven herself to be the ultimate multi-hyphenate. Although, she asserts, there is in fact a thread of continuity that runs throughout her opus: “The motive behind all of my creative processes is an interest in exploring ideas of family, comfort, connectivity and relationships,” says Mckenzie. “Home came about because I felt there weren’t enough places in London for BIPOC artists to call home, to be presented in a space that contextualizes the work without extra explanation. I had grown frustrated with being lumped and grouped together with every other BIPOC artist without any care to the fact that we are all individuals with our own stories and intentions. It felt important to create a space to share and discuss those works without feeling tokenized.”
“I feel there’s a special understanding when a woman designs for women. It creates indescribable nuances that allow garments to hold the body in a certain way that allows for both a sense of security and a sense of freedom
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While Mckenzie might have opted for photography – among an ever-growing list of other endeavors – over styling, she’s the first to admit that her sartorial prowess has a profound effect on her work. “My personal style is an extension of myself, and it makes sense that, as a photographer, I naturally end up photographing clothing and people in a way that I would want to be seen.” Furthermore, Mckenzie is frank about the impact her clothes can have on her mood on any given day. “I take a lot of care in my personal style as it has so much influence on how I feel.” Mckenzie also admits that in her line of work there’s a particularly pertinent need to strike the balance between chic and casual. “Sometimes I wish I had a job where I could wear cute clothes to work, but I’m constantly laying on the floor or moving around to get the shot, so it’s just not practical, but I always at least have a fresh trim and wear earrings, so I still feel like myself. It’s important that I’m comfortable and ready for my day, whether that’s on set or elsewhere. My look has an impact on how confident I feel.”
However, Mckenzie’s love of clothes and her respect for the transformative power of fashion is tempered by the high expectations she has of the considered pieces hanging in her closet. When it comes to her wardrobe, “every piece has a purpose. Each one makes me feel a certain way or helps me tap into a certain part of myself”.
“I love the quality and feel of Isabel Marant’s pieces and fabrics. [Her knitwear] has such a comforting feel yet it’s also elegant and strong, which is the balance I aim for across my wardrobe
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So, which label can Mckenzie always count on to deliver on style, comfort and purpose in equal measure? Season after season, it’s Isabel Marant. “I love the quality and feel of Isabel Marant’s pieces and fabrics. Lots of her designs manage to slot into my work wardrobe and my personal look; from her beautifully structured cream bomber jacket to her knee-high leather boots. Then there’s the knitwear – it has such a comforting feel yet it’s also elegant and strong, which is the balance I aim for across my wardrobe”. But Mckenzie’s appreciation of Isabel Marant’s designs goes beyond mere aesthetics and touches on something deeper. “I feel there’s a special understanding when a woman designs for women. It creates indescribable nuances that allow garments to hold the body in a certain way that allows for both a sense of security and a sense of freedom.”
Really, the affinity between these two needle-moving creatives should come as no surprise. Ultimately, for Mckenzie, the allure of Isabel Marant’s designs is that they were conceived by a woman, for women, giving them the tools to be seen how they truly want to be seen, for the myriad beings that they are, which is exactly what McKenzie has done through her photography and push for inclusion in the art world.