In conversation with master shoemaker Gianvito Rossi
Since launching his eponymous label in 2006, GIANVITO ROSSI has become the final word in luxury footwear and a design icon in his own right. Here, the industry’s favorite cordwainer speaks frankly about stepping out from his father’s shadow, his latest signature style, the ‘Bijoux’, and reveals his formula for creating the perfect shoe…
When did you first realize designing shoes was your calling?
“I have always been involved in the art of shoe making; it was a very natural process. I worked alongside my father [fashion legend Sergio Rossi] until he sold his company. That was the first point at which I found myself removed from that world and it was then that I understood clearly that shoes really are my life. Sometimes you don’t appreciate the value of something until it’s taken away from you. It was realizing how much I missed shoes that inspired me to establish my own label.”
What do shoes represent to you?
“I was born into a world of shoes. They are my life, my language, and the means through which I express myself.”
Was it daunting to break away and create your own brand?
“It was difficult and easy at the same time. Coming from such a strong shoemaking heritage and culture, I immediately received attention from the industry but, by the same token, the expectations put upon me were very high right from the beginning. Luckily, my father always taught me to try to do better, because no matter how good you think you are there’s always room for improvement.”
What is the essence of the Gianvito Rossi label?
“The utmost attention to design detail, quality and craftsmanship.”
Do you have a formula for creating the perfect shoe?
“There are many elements that you need to bring together to create the perfect shoe. To my mind, it’s a delicate balance of shape, line and precise proportions, crafted using the most exemplary materials and adhering to traditional techniques. Of course, it’s also essential to find equilibrium between this search for beauty and the perfect fit.”
Where do you look for inspiration?
“My designs are deeply rooted in my Italian heritage – it’s a source of endless inspiration, elegance and femininity and, with my shoes, I try to translate this in a modern and universal way. I’m extremely focused and precise when it comes to shapes and lines; I think it’s so important to show off a woman’s silhouette.”
What’s the process when you’re developing an iconic shoe?
“It begins as a quest for perfection, with innovation and creativity driving the entire process. Simplicity and originality are the absolute cornerstones of all my designs. When you blend these elements together with a focus on excellent quality you know you’re on the way to creating an iconic style.”
What’s the inspiration behind your new ‘Bijoux’ style?
“The ‘Bijoux’ gives new meaning to the classic stiletto. It’s a simple design updated with sensuous forms, and putting an unexpected geometrical, perfectly balanced twist on such a delicate silhouette challenges traditional notions of proportion and volume. The ‘Bijoux’ style combines two distinct worlds: the sensuality of a stiletto heel with the spirit and levity of a sneaker.”
Any plans for the future of the brand?
“I want to continue surprising my clients by creating exciting new styles that make them smile and dream. There’s no one I haven’t worked with yet that I’m dying to dress. To me, all my clients are stars – not least the handful of royals who have graced my Milan atelier with their presence.”
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