Spirited Away

Let’s not dwell on the lost summer of 2020 – or the missed opportunities to don our best looks. Not when there’s ample opportunity to step into 2021 with renewed vigor, embracing the exuberance and optimism channeled in this season’s collections. And, frankly, to fall back in love with fashion.

For SS21, that means tapping into the adventurous spirit running through the season’s key styles. After all, who wants to dress for another day inside when, irrespective of where we are, we can mentally escape with the help of a wandering wardrobe?

Designers clearly had escape on the brain when they dreamt up their spring/summer 2021 collections. From Dries Van Noten and Chloé to Caravana and Kenneth Ize, we saw escape played out in cloth – a kind of counter-offer to the glut of swaddling cashmere and fleece-lined sweats that have dominated the collections in recent seasons. The tactile pleasures of last year’s comforting work-from-home essentials have been traded for the stimulating textures of technicolor raffia, clashing prints, and a sun-washed palette befitting a Moroccan souk. It’s high time to ditch indoor dressing and channel this modern-inflected bohemia.

Beauty, too, is key to putting a timely twist on the bohemian mood we’re channeling with our wardrobes, balancing freeing, tactile clothing with high-shine, healthy-looking skin. Think a fresh base boosted with a shock of expressive color on the lids, or a glossy highlighter on the cheeks in a subtly unexpected hue (like the iridescent blue and mauve-tinted shades in the Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish palette). “It’s all about spots or flashes of color, rather than full-on paint,” says Inge Grognard, who worked with Dries Van Noten to create the fresh makeup look that accompanied the designer’s SS21 lookbook. “It was a burst of optimism and joy – exactly what we need right now – while keeping the skin natural and hydrated. That’s important. Don’t cover the whole face with foundation; just use a touch of cream concealer on any red areas.”

In fact, along with a flash of joyful color, what feels more freeing than forgoing a layer of foundation? “Having spent months wearing little to no makeup in the past year, skin has become a focus – and I’m finding that people are now more comfortable with naked skin,” says Sarah Chapman, the UK-based facialist and founder of Skinesis. For achieving what Chapman describes as a modern, “glass-like” complexion, a combination of products containing hyaluronic acid and vitamins A and C are key. “I would suggest adding facial massage to your daily routine to really invigorate the skin, and charge up activity at the cellular level through blood flow and drainage,” she adds, implementing this at the cleansing stage of her routine, using Skinesis Ultimate Cleanse. She also recommends omega supplements for a natural, megawatt glow.

Chapman, as the entrepreneur behind a world-renowned clinic and coveted skincare brand, knows all too well why we’re seeking escape and embracing an optimistic mood with our wardrobes. “This past year has had its stresses for everyone, with increased emotional and financial pressures,” she says. “I really look forward to stepping away from devices, after so much time spent at home – and being social again, dressing up and getting jewelry out, and enjoying a bright and colorful summer. No more loungewear!”

If you’re looking for an easy update, indulging in fashion’s escapist mood without a full wardrobe reset, start with accessories, advises Page. “A large basket bag with smooth leather-trim details by Altuzarra or Loewe is a great accessory update that works well for both beach and city. As for footwear, Birkenstock’s collaborations with Too Good and Central Saint Martins add a minimalistic, modern touch.”

“This summer is about feeling good and trying things that feel different, eclectic and exciting,” she adds. The sensory pleasures of these styles speak to that, with their tactile clash of raffia and fringe, scintillating modern metal touches and prismatic prints (the latter made more playful when embraced in the form of Fendi and Paco Rabanne’s cheering bucket hats). In fact, fashion’s powerhouses are encouraging that sense of play, with no shortage of statement headwear – bucket hats from Fendi (high-impact monochrome straw), Paco Rabanne (trippy tie-dye), Valentino (intricate lace) and a litany of luxury options from Loewe, from classic raffia and leather to vibrant Balearic-inspired prints. If you’re looking for permission to let loose with uplifting accessories, consider it granted.