Marni’s mood-boosting colors

In his pre-fall 2019 show notes, Marni Creative Director Francesco Risso posed a series of provocative questions: “What happens when control meets abandon? When strictness welcomes chaos?” His musings preceded a collection that was quintessential Risso: print, color and directional silhouettes grounded in real-world elegance. It was the perfect incarnation of form and disorder, elegance and abandon, reminding us that this is a designer whose deeply cerebral approach brings a vigor that pushes his collections beyond aesthetic appeal into an artistic territory.

Marni and the art world have always gone hand-in-hand, and since Risso’s appointment in October 2016, the brand has pursued new modes of sartorial subversion. This season, the Sardinia-born designer was inspired by an American TV series called The Terror, which recounts a Royal Navy Arctic expedition gone wrong. With uniforms as his baseline, Risso reconfigured their associated homogeneity with an explosion of color and psychedelic prints. What this means for Marni fans is a capsule wardrobe of staple silhouettes in statement finishes.

The languorous midi-length shirt dress is destined to become a workwear go-to. Enlivened in blocks of utilitarian navy, blush pink, burnt orange and pure white, Risso elevates this humble piece beyond a wardrobe ‘basic’. His new Marni bags lend structure to soft lines, so styling is effortless; paired with a capacious tote or clean-lined satchel, this look has the potential to be both refined and fashion-forward. When the weekend rolls around, continue to stand out in a bold color-blocked sleeveless maxi dress. Fuchsia-pink and rose-red are grounded by a clean optic white, lending a romantic feel to this summer staple. Dress it down by day with flat sandals, and up after dark with knee-high boots and sculptural jewelry.

As for special occasions, an abstract paisley-print ankle-grazing dress in a modest long-sleeved silhouette is the type of head-turning piece every woman needs in her sartorial artillery. Styled simply with barely-there sandals or chic slouched boots, this is a one-and-done, super-versatile piece that will take you effortlessly from an exhibition opening to a black-tie dinner – just add statement earrings and a swipe of red lipstick.

It’s immediately evident that Risso’s relationship with design is inherent; his grandmother, a well-known tailor in Genoa, taught him hands-on skills from a young age. After honing his talents at prestigious fashion schools Polimoda in Florence, the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and Central Saint Martins in London, he worked at Prada for eight years before joining Marni. His eccentric artistry was a perfect fit for the brand and with this collection, Risso’s fans – old and new – can rejoice in another unique and truly extraordinary collection.