4 New Brands To Know Now On NET-A-PORTER
Le Sundial, Wiederhoeft, Sharon Wauchob and Juju Vera share an appreciation for timeless craftsmanship and the ability to infuse it with modernity. Fire up your wish lists: these are the new names to know now, says COLLEEN ROSS
Le Sundial
“Le Sundial pieces are conceived as wearable expressions of beauty, designed to evoke emotion and atmosphere rather than simply follow trends,” says Le Sundial creative director, Silvia Dusci. “Each piece is meant to be experienced, to linger in memory, and to reveal its character over time.”
Inspired by both “the elegance of Art Deco and the poetic, free-spirited charm of bohemian style,” Dusci’s designs are tied as much to emotions and memories conjured by a film she’s seen, or a city she’s visited, as they are tangible objects. “Inspiration often reveals itself in subtle ways, through a certain light, a texture, or the atmosphere of a place,” she explains. “I’m fascinated by contrast: where the old meets the new, where simplicity carries a sense of depth. That tension, delicate yet intentional, shapes the essence of my design language.”
Once Dusci has sketched out her designs, she begins to map out the colors and materials that resonate most. “I love working with onyx, freshwater pearls and red jasper. I’m also deeply drawn to coral and jade; materials with a rich cultural history and sensuous warmth. Their colors, textures and imperfections tell stories of nature and time,” she says. Every piece is then skilfully handcrafted by goldsmiths in the heart of Milan, where the brand is based. “Supporting this community and working closely alongside it allows me to stay connected to every stage of the process, from the first sketch to the finished piece – and to witness each jewel grow and take on its own life,” Dusci explains.
The NET-A-PORTER edit includes tasseled necklaces and earrings from the Venice Opera collection, designed to evoke “the opulence of its opera houses and the rhythm of its canals,” as well as a beautiful Art Deco-inspired cocktail ring and the refined ‘Lydia’ bag – one of Dusci’s favorites.
Juju Vera
Julia Ferentinos, also known as Juju (her childhood nickname), only launched Juju Vera last year, but has already established herself as one of the most exciting jewelry designers in New York. Inspired by her former career as a vintage dealer, as well as her Greek and Italian heritage, Ferentinos blends the elegance of the past with a vision set firmly in the future, creating pieces she hopes will one day be modern heirlooms. “I imagine my designs being lived in, layered and touched by time. I see them as adornment for independently minded women, worn with ease and intention, becoming part of their own evolving story,” she says.
Approaching everything with an expert eye and drawn to objects that are “shaped by time, restraint and emotion”, Ferentinos finds much of her inspiration in history books, architecture and old films, jotting down ideas for future collections in a sketchbook she carries with her everywhere she goes. It’s little wonder, then, that her designs resemble true antiques – from intricately embossed cuffs and arm bands carved with twin spiral motifs to Athenian collars set with semi-precious stones, each piece feels evocative of a bygone era realized through a contemporary lens.
“One of my favorite pieces [in the NET-A-PORTER edit] is the ‘Vienna’ diamond pendant, which can be worn as both a necklace and a brooch,” she says of the piece that’s features a stunning onyx cabochon surrounded by 208 round-cut diamonds and a swishy silk tassel. “It carries an antique spirit but feels completely modern to me. I’ve been wearing it out to dinner a lot lately.”
Sharon Wauchob
“It's important to have something to say. Someone in the industry once said that to me; that's the only reason you should really do it, which I think is true. And you have to remind yourself of that as you go along,” says Irish-born designer Sharon Wauchob, as she reflects on the brand she launched more than two decades ago.
For Wauchob, who spent much of her career in Paris but now lives and works in London, much of what she articulates in her work stems from the women around her, be it a friend or a client, and the modernity they crave from their clothes. “One of the reasons that I’ve focused on silk [in the collection that has launched on NET-A-PORTER] is the lightness,” she explains. “I want this to be a collection where you can do what a lot of women have to do – want to do or need to do – which is just to pick things up and put them on without thinking about them; being able to travel knowing they can bounce into life – and silk does that,” she explains.
Wiederhoeft
Jackson Wiederhoeft’s world is one of fantasy, fairy tales and theatrics – a dream-like space where dance and live performance are just as important as the clothes being modeled on the runway. Having recently showcased Wiederhoeft’s seventh collection on the New York Fashion Week schedule, the Parsons School of Design graduate and CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist is making waves in the industry as one of its most exciting creative talents – with everyone from Sabrina Carpenter and Rihanna to Nicola Coughlan, Solange Knowles and Taylor Swift flocking to be dressed by them on the red carpet.
Crafted in New York’s historic Garment District using couture-level techniques, Wiederhoeft’s signature corsets – often bedecked with intricate embroidery, floral appliqués and bows – are impeccably constructed to celebrate and accentuate bodies of all shapes and sizes. “[Corsets] are such emotional garments, completely laden with historical and emotional meaning. They are also pieces of architecture, filled with steel and built like a house. There is so much to say about corsets – and that’s why I love them so much. They are completely unique garments and unparalleled in the history of the world – loved by many, hated by some, misunderstood by most – but completely powerful.”
Storytelling is integral to Wiederhoeft’s design process and a huge part of what makes their collections so immersive – and emotive, too. But where do they find inspiration? “It’s a little tricky, because I have to let inspiration find me. My research process is never-ending. Sometimes I’ll be researching a topic for weeks and I don’t really understand why. I feel like a squirrel burying nuts for winter, uncertain I’ll find them in the spring. But eventually it all comes together once the collection is moving. I just have to trust my own eye – trust what I’m drawn to – and then one day the story appears out of the mist.”
RELATED READING
The models featured in this story are not associated with NET-A-PORTER and do not endorse it or the products shown