How To Choose The Perfect-Sized Watch To Suit Your Wrist
Unsure which fine timepiece will suit your proportions? FELIX BISCHOF decodes the dial sizes and silhouettes of this year’s chicest offerings
A generous dial with gender-neutral details
With the round cases of its signature ‘Portofino’ models, Swiss maison IWC Schaffhausen pays tribute to Lépine pocket watches of the 1970s. At 37mm, the case size of the ‘Portofino Automatic’ makes it a genderless design; a chameleon that will appear expertly oversized on a woman’s wrist (without the case extending beyond the wrist bone – a big no-no when it comes to selecting a jumbo timepiece) and yet still rests snugly upon a larger male wrist without feeling diminutive. In both instances, the ‘Portofino Automatic’ remains elegant and understated, while its carefully calibrated mixed materials and brown calf-leather strap make it a timepiece that is easy to wear, especially for those who lean towards an androgynous aesthetic.
The petite and playful dial
Hermès Timepieces’ ‘Faubourg’ model ranks as one of the smallest on the market, with its case measuring just 15.5mm. Sharing a name with Paris’s central rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the rose-gold watch is christened in honor of Hermès’ storied flagship boutique – which first opened in 1880 – and will appeal to those looking for a time-telling jewel. Its dinky, round case houses a ballet-pink lacquered dial, set with circles of pink and white sapphires and placed at the center of a polished chain-link bracelet. One-part precious bracelet, one-part timekeeper, the ‘Faubourg’ is an elegant option for those who prefer their watches delicate, discreet and exquisite – the perfect piece for those with slender wrists.
A striking rectangular silhouette
Cartier is synonymous with stylish, squared and ovoid silhouettes, from the sharp angles of the ‘Panthère de Cartier’ to the elongated curves of the ‘Baignoire’. Founder Louis Cartier first premiered his designs for the ‘Tank’ family of watches in 1917, and the ‘Tank Louis Cartier’ is now a piece of design – and watchmaking – history. Named after the Renault Tanks of WWI, the timepiece’s industrial inspiration shaped a streamlined case with four corners that is simultaneously a rectangle (see the vertical sidebars) and a square. The ‘Tank’ design codes have since inspired many iterations, too – this model measures 33.7mm by 25.5mm and features an 18-karat gold case with a bold claret dial. A middling dial size, bolstered with big heritage, the ‘Tank Louis de Cartier’ is no wallflower – choose from the navy or claret styles to suit your personal style.
The round timepiece with a high-jewelry finish
Showcasing a vivid-blue alligator strap, the ‘Rendez-Vous Dazzling Moon’ by Swiss watchmaking behemoth Jaeger-LeCoultre is equally notable for its case dimensions: crafted from 18-karat rose gold, the case measures 36mm in diameter – a vital statistic that places the style at the larger end of the ladies’ watch spectrum. This hybrid of timepiece and jewelry-making excellence sits prominently atop the wrist at 10.76mm deep, dazzling with brilliant-cut diamonds that are nestled within high-sitting collets to allow light to flood each stone, adding extra, potent scintillation.
A cushion-shaped case with directional curves
First unveiled in 1979, Piaget’s ‘Polo Automatic’ is a lesson in geometry. Cushion-shaped, its bezel – crafted from 18-karat rose gold to match its case and set with a halo of diamonds – is rounded to the touch but frames the dial with a hexagon shape. A somewhat unconventional choice, a large case sits harmoniously under a sleeve without dwarfing waif-like wrists. This 36mm model is a timeless choice for those who favor sports-luxe-inspired design.
Classic proportions with a diamond-set case
Vacheron Constantin’s ‘Égérie Automatic’ timepiece collection is a tribute to the beauty and finesse of haute couture, played out here with a rose-gold case and white-gold dial, dusted in round-cut diamonds. There are 303 scintillating stones set across the bezel, lugs, flanks and inter-lugs, and a further 574 diamonds dazzle upon the watch face – all of which are pavé-set to capture and reflect light from every angle. Measuring 35mm in dial diameter, this is a watch of classic proportions, and whose substantial case size and diamond flourishes afford it an haute horlogerie finish.