Fine Jewelry

How To Curate A Wear-Forever Fine-Jewelry Collection

L-R: necklace, Foundrae; earrings, Anita Ko; watch, Cartier; bracelet, Suzanne Kalan; ring, Spinelli Kilcollin; bracelet, Lauren Rubinski

If you’re seeking fine jewels that feel contemporary now but will last a lifetime, listen to jewelry tastemaker WILL KAHN, who shares the best way to choose modern pieces with everlasting appeal

Fine jewels are investment pieces that last forever, but it can be tricky to navigate the process of choosing designs that won’t date. There are, however, a few fundamentals that should underpin your search. Firstly, mixing metals is not only OK, it’s highly advisable – mixing silver, yellow gold, white gold and rose gold feels more layered and natural, and will give you a highly versatile collection. In terms of gold quality, the higher the karat weight, the purer the gold; and the purer the gold, the greater the investment. Where diamonds are concerned, VSI-grade diamonds can be a great starting point for your collection. VSI stands for ‘very slightly included’, meaning that any imperfections are only visible with a microscope – the perfect starting point for beginner investors.

Classic design codes are important, too, but your pieces should always have something ‘extra’ going on – after all, jewelry should add a special touch that makes your overall look come to life. Let’s also remember that layering is the look right now: wear a bracelet with your watch, put all the necklaces on, and be brave with mixing and matching myriad pieces together. But remember: these designs should also be individually striking, so they can stand alone should the trend shift.

While each jewelry collection should be personal to its owner, there are some hero pieces that belong in every jewelry box. A medallion necklace is a great foundation for necklace layering, for example – Foundrae’s chain system lets you add multiple medals and adapt the length of the drop, making it easy to switch up your layered look every day. A stacking ring by Spinelli Kilcollin, meanwhile, offers a next-level look with the ease of just one ring.

For evening events, ‘party earrings’ are crucial. Semi-precious jewels offer playful volume here, so explore stones such as quartz, spinels and aquamarines to complement a cocktail dress

Pearl and hoop earrings are also a must: Carolina Bucci’s heart-shape hoops will add a fierce accent to each outfit, while Sophie Bille Brahe’s modern take on pearl earrings lend a chic touch to everything from knitwear to slinky slip dresses. For evening events, ‘party earrings’ are crucial. Semi-precious jewels offer playful volume here, so explore stones such as quartz, tourmalines, spinels and aquamarines to complement a cocktail dress.

For the wrist, a gold-chain bracelet is a steadfast staple: Lauren Rubinski’s 14-karat styles are an expert choice, with hollow links making them featherlight to wear. Every jewelry collection also needs a tennis bracelet, but it doesn’t have to feature a traditional line of diamonds – instead, consider a stretchy style or one featuring unusual diamond cuts. This is a piece that will take your look from day to night for years to come.

Watches are also bona fide forever pieces. While a smart phone might be the most convenient time-telling device, it’s worth investing in a chic timepiece, too. Jackie O – perhaps one of the most eternal arbiters of classic yet contemporary style in her day – wore a Cartier ‘Tank’ design, and watches from a high-end maison such as Cartier can even appreciate in value. But investment aside, iconic styles from the likes of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Hermès Timepieces will always deliver an elegant aesthetic that endures for decades.

See more from Will Khan on Instagram @willsnotebook