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Incredible Women. Incredible Fashion. Every Day.

Porter
Cover story

In Fine Detail

With

Lexi Boling

Whether on dress-down, off-duty days or formal, black-tie evenings, there is much to be said for elegant details, such as an opulent bracelet watch, flashed discreetly from beneath the cuff of a silk blouse, or a talismanic pendant necklace, layered over a simple white T-shirt. LAURA HAWKINS breaks down seven of this season’s most beautiful fine-jewelry and watch trends, modeled here by LEXI BOLING

Photography Benjamin VnukStyling Natasha Wray
Cover Stories

There’s a sparkling spectrum of fine-jewelry trends to tap into for 2020: inject a little joy with boldly colored gemstones, go supersize with dramatic XL earrings or lend a low-key-luxe edge to everyday ensembles with delicate diamonds. Coincidentally, the kaleidoscopic shades, architectural shapes and romantic gossamer fabrics that defined the cruise collections provide the perfect backdrop for offsetting these exquisite gems. So take note: these are the new trends to know, and the looks that will add a fashion-forward edge to your fine jewelry.

Golden hour

The cocktail watch – bejeweled, bedazzled or boasting a secret dial and elongated lugs – adds an haute twist to after-hours horology. Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designs also tap into 2020’s predilection for stacking and layering with their bracelet-like diamond straps and chunky chains – show them off with puffed or three-quarter-length sleeves for a subtle flash of gold. The history of these ultra-luxe timepieces is decade-spanning, making them true modern heirlooms. Parisian maison Cartier launched its fluid Panthère watch collection in the 1980s, and its updated version features a dial squared with sparkling diamonds nestled inside a wider chain bracelet. Meanwhile, Swiss maison Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 101 watch initially debuted in the 1920s and was later worn by Queen Elizabeth II to her coronation in 1953; its enduring appeal is a testament to its timeless style. The luxury watchmaker’s Reverso style debuted in the 1930s and features interchangeable white and midnight-blue dials – a subtle and technically innovative way to move from daytime elegance to night-time chic.

This image: blouse, Balmain; watch, Jaeger LeCoultre; ear cuff, Anita Ko. Opening image: shirt, Totême; watch, Jaeger LeCoultre; ring, Repossi
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Flying colors

It’s little surprise that demand for colored gemstones is rising – they give your look a prismatic punch. Citrines, rubies and emeralds also evoke the vivid colors of the cruise collections, while those with February birthdays should opt for their birthstone, amethyst. Californian jeweler Suzanne Kalan brings a contemporary spin to stone setting: “The chaos and the charm of diamonds and gems falling randomly into place is how my Fireworks collection began,” she says of her signature pieces, which feature colored stones that appear to ‘explode’ across the skin. Italian jeweler Buccellati has also brought bold energy to the ‘It’ jewelry item of SS20: its zesty flower brooch is the perfect kaleidoscopic pin-up. Amrapali’s Creative Director, Tarang Arora, has said in the past that emeralds are his favorite gemstones, which explains why they feature so prominently in his ultra-luxe, hand-cast pieces. Use multicolored stones to complement sunshine shades and make gauzy sartorial creations in cotton-candy pink and cornflower blue even more striking.

Dress, Oscar de la Renta; bracelet, Amrapali

Everyday diamonds

The dramatic draw of diamonds never wanes, whether they’re sprinkled delicately across the skin in narrow ring bands or suspended in standout fashion from the wrist on a 1920s-style tennis bracelet. We suggest sculptural interpretations, such as Swiss fine jeweler Piaget and Paris-based Messika’s white-gold cuffs, which dazzle with diamond-encrusted detailing. If you’re fluctuating between a pear or emerald cut as your favorite diamond finish, Messika’s Toi & Moi open ring allows you to flaunt both. Scandi stylist Alexandra Carl has demonstrated that diamonds are appropriate for everything (even wearing her Sophie Bille Brahe styles while hiking), so don your diamonds with a versatile ribbed knit – such as Khaite’s ivory number with modern sweetheart neckline – that works for day and night. For extra-special occasions, pair New York-based label Ana Khouri’s single statement ear cuff with a bold, ruffled neckline.

“The chaos and the charm of diamonds and gems falling randomly into place is how my Fireworks collection began”

Suzanne Kalan
Dress, Valentino; ear cuff, Ana Khouri
Sweater, Khaite; earrings and necklace, Anita Ko; ring, Messika

Go large

An oversized earring makes an immediate style statement and taps into spring/summer 2020’s maximalist mood, one that incorporates voluminous sleeves and eveningwear with puffball hemlines. Hoops were top of SS20’s jewelry-trend hot list, and jeweler Ofira brings the star-speckled energy of the whole universe into her oversized hoop creations that resemble diamond-encrusted planets in orbit. Buccellati – famed for its eye-catching, time-honed techniques, like its lacework Rigato etching – is also taking no half measures. There’s a fabric-like fluidity behind these 18-karat white-and-yellow-gold earrings set with brilliant-cut diamonds. They’ll bring supersized day-to-night sparkle to any ensemble.

Dress, Tory Burch; earrings, Buccellati
Tank top, ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo; pants, Helmut Lang; earrings, Ana Khouri; both necklaces, Foundrae

Modern luxe

Self-care and positive energy is high on the agenda for 2020, and Foundrae’s jewelry designs provide the ultimate in mystical magnificence. The New York-based brand’s signature medallion necklaces feature charms denoting karma, wholeness and protection. Their proportions provide the perfect accessory for cruise’s high necklines and dramatic dipped-décolleté dresses. With a background in sculpture, jewelry designer Ana Khouri also considers the human form, lending a luxurious modernity to her graphic designs which incorporate the contours of the body. Her architectural double earrings will ensure the eye settles on spring’s standout necklines, be they high, halter or asymmetric.

“With pearls, my mother would make every outfit she wore elegant and complete”

Anissa Kermiche

Pearly queens

Pearls have moved from conservative to cool, from old-world to fashion-forward, thanks to jewelers like London-based Anissa Kermiche, New York label Mateo and Danish designer Sophie Bille Brahe, whose designs experiment with irregularity, asymmetry and texture. Brahe clusters pearls so they resemble sprays of sea foam, and her necklaces feature strings of pearls of varying sizes, offering easy, everyday appeal. The pearl pieces in Kermiche’s Period Drama collection have evening allure; those on rings and drop earrings are set against gothic pearl-cut garnets. “With pearls, my mother would make every outfit she wore elegant and complete,” says Kermiche. Offset milky stones against chic all-black ensembles or dial up the drama by teaming with extravagant lace-trimmed eveningwear.

Top, 3.1 Phillip Lim; earrings, Mateo; necklace, Sophie Bille Brahe

Chain reaction

Gold is in the midst of a popularity boom, bolstered in part by Bottega Veneta and its creative director Daniel Lee’s obsession with outré ’80s chains. For provocative power dressing, we advise pairing chunky linked chokers and bracelets with cruise’s bold brights or teaming them with fluid white gowns for Delphic dazzle. Pomellato’s founder Pino Rabolini was one of the first jewelers to mix chain sizes within individual pieces, such as the Milanese label’s polished Iconica links. Create intrigue by layering up different weights and styles: try mixing Carolina Bucci’s texturized Florentine-finished loops with LA-based Lauren Rubinski’s lightweight curb links. “A chain necklace, for me, is really the piece that puts a look together, instantly,” says Rubinski. “It gives you immediate style and presence.”

“A chain necklace, for me, is really the piece that puts a look together, instantly

Lauren Rubinski
Top, Rosie Assoulin; necklaces, Lauren Rubinski