Why Irene Neuwirth’s Gumball Jewels Are The Most Joyous Of The Season
The Californian designer’s signature collection is utterly irresistible to both jewelry connoisseurs and stylish tastemakers alike, delivering shots of pure color. By CHARLIE BOYD
No one forgets the first time they discover Irene Neuwirth’s Gumball collection – it feels like holding pure summer in the palm of your hand. Her big, juicy gemstones in sorbet-bright hues sit proudly in gleaming 18-karat gold and are available in a veritable rainbow of semi-precious stones that can’t help but inspire a smile.
Neuwirth famously launched her brand in 2003 after visiting a bead store in Santa Monica, cobbling together a handful of designs, and sending them to Barneys in New York on a wing and a prayer, accompanied by a short note penned in Sharpie. Needless to say, they snapped up her vibrant pieces immediately, and she took to the bench in reverse – learning wax carving, metalsmithing, and jewelry construction to support her expansive imagination.
More than two decades later, Neuwirth is the go-to fine jewelry designer for gems that radiate joy, each of her creations brimming with whimsy and bold color in equal measure. The Californian designer is best known for her panache with color pairings – she’s a true expert at matching pretty pastels with zingy tones – but the Gumball collection’s real charm lies in its contrast: smooth cabochon orbs and faceted gems resemble candy gobstoppers and hard-boiled sweets, perfectly crafted to shimmer and scintillate in the Californian sunshine. Choosing just one pair of Gumball earrings when presented with a tray of them is nearly impossible – you feel like a child in a candy store.
It’s no wonder, then, that Neuwirth has garnered such a prestigious clientele. Ariana Grande, Oprah, Taylor Swift, Gwyneth Paltrow and Rihanna are just a few names on the designer’s roster of celebrity fans. Neuwirth’s creations have also been spotted on the likes of Dr Jill Biden and former US Vice President Kamala Harris, cementing her pieces as not only stylish treasures but veritable power jewels. The subtext? Women who wear Gumballs mean business.
This is backed up by the quality of gems chosen for each of Neuwirth’s bold and bright designs. Sourcing each stone individually from lapidaries around the world, she takes the time to select each one for its precise shade and texture, ensuring perfectly color-matched jewels, while diamonds are intricately set to create a carpet of seamless sparkle on each round drop. Jewelry lovers might recognize other key gemstones within her repertoire, such as turquoise and pink opal, but even connoisseurs will discover exotic stones rarely employed by other fine jewelers, such as kunzite, chalcedony, and chrysoprase, which add nuanced half hues to the likes of morganites and tourmalines. This forensic understanding of color can perhaps be credited to Neuwirth’s artistic pedigree – her mother was an accomplished painter, while her business-minded father was able to steer her in setting up her own enterprise.
“These are the sorts of jewels that can transform a white tank top, add spice to a denim shirt, offer the final pop of color to a printed summer dress, or contrast with a block-color swimsuit
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Now counting three stores of her own, Neuwirth’s creations are sold both in the US and internationally, appealing to many markets with their inimitable, universal vibe – these are the sorts of jewels that can transform a white tank top, add spice to a denim shirt, offer the final pop of color to a printed summer dress, or contrast with a block-color swimsuit. Whether studs or drops, bearing bright gems, scintillating diamonds, or crafted from plain, playfully puffed-up gold, there is a Gumball jewel out there that will bring pure delight to everyone.