A New Mood
With
Sasha Pivovarova
The fall/winter ’25 runways were filled with elegant draping and sculptural silhouettes that will elevate your new-season wardrobe, says GILLIAN BRETT. Discover precision-cut outerwear, sensual dresses that skim the body, and striking jewelry – by Alaïa, The Row, Stella McCartney and more – showcased by model SASHA PIVOVAROVA
The fall/winter ’25 shows struck the perfect balance between softness and structure. There was a graceful sense of movement on the runways, as fluid draping delicately skimmed the body, while sharp tailoring added definition. Fabrics were like a tale of two halves, as luxe leather emphasized clean lines, contrasting beautifully against the supple folds of silky satins and jerseys. “Those graphic shapes, when simplified against bare skin, bring a confidence and sensuality that I love,” says NET-A-PORTER’s acting senior fashion editor Elizabeth Fraser-Bell, who styled our shoot. “Brands like Tom Ford and Jacquemus really leaned into these clean, architectural silhouettes – and I think those structures, coupled with draping from brands like Alaïa and Magda Butrym, offer versatile ways to create shape. These drapes aren’t just decorative; they’re shape-shifting and form-fitting.”
This interplay between volume and draping is key. Alaïa has always mastered this with utter perfection. In fact, the late couturier Azzedine Alaïa initially trained to be a sculptor, going on to ‘sculpt’ and mold his designs directly onto the body. Current creative director Pieter Mulier paid homage to the house’s heritage for fall/winter ’25 with his rolled-waist pleated skirts that swished, swayed and seemed to hover weightlessly around the body. If they feel a little avant-garde, the pale-blue midi dress that Sasha Pivovarova models in our PORTER shoot has all the Alaïa hallmarks in a slightly more subtle form – the high neckline and clever ruching below the waist create an hourglass shape. Layer Tom Ford’s sleek double-breasted wool-bouclé coat on top to anchor the litheness of the dress with architectural precision.
Read on for more of the key pieces you need to master this look for fall – and the chicest ways to wear them…
“I want to EMPOWER women. I want us all to feel COMFORTABLE in our own skin; HAPPY, powerful and confident”
Magda Butrym
The enduring allure of red
From Rosso Valentino and Gucci Rosso to Christian Louboutin’s red lacquered soles, designers have long been seduced by the romance of red. For Magda Butrym, a red rose has become a visual cue, and this scarlet dress is like one of her buds in full bloom, with its striking pleated skirt that falls to a gathered split hem. This dress is both effortless and impactful – a great choice if you have a winter wedding on the horizon that you want to look and feel your best for. “I want to empower women,” says Butrym. “I want us all to feel comfortable in our own skin; happy, powerful and confident.”
The does-it-all dress
With companies globally introducing back-to-the-office mandates, our wardrobes are once again having to work that bit harder. The school run, back-to-back meetings and dinner with friends are all happening within the same 12 hours. Women need easy yet sophisticated pieces that could take them confidently from an investor pitch to a date. The Row has become a go-to for effortless sophistication, and it’s ‘Anslem’ dress ticks all the boxes for a packed schedule; it’s demure enough for the office and slinky enough for after-work events. Cut from draped jersey, the pleated design creates flattering definition at the waist. Style it with ankle boots in the office and stilettos after hours. The days are back when keeping a pair of heels under your desk – just in case – is essential.
“What I believe in very much, as a female designer, is: you leave work and you party,” Stella McCartney told fashion journal WWD backstage, following a fall/winter ’25 show that saw classic gray coat dresses paired with glossy thigh-high boots. “The day-to-night thing is really important for my brand.” Also debuted on McCartney’s fall runway is this lustrous mint-green midi with statement padded shoulders and a twisted front that cinches the waist – a piece that will work overtime in your wardrobe. “This dress looks sensational – from the color, to the draping, to the power shoulders and silhouette,” McCartney told PORTER. “And you would never know it was in a sustainable fabric,” added the designer, who is known for her dedication to consciously crafted luxury. “This dress is in forest-friendly viscose satin, which is made from sustainably sourced wood pulp – crazy! This is a material we have invested a lot of time and money into. We have created our own supply chain, and it’s woven exclusively for us by mills in Italy. For me, this is proof you should never have to sacrifice on design or style to protect Mother Earth.”
“You should NEVER have to sacrifice on DESIGN or style to PROTECT Mother Earth”
Stella McCartney
Gold-tinted glasses
While the cooler months mean shorter days and considerably less sunshine, that absolutely doesn’t mean you can’t wear sunglasses. The right pair can make an outfit look instantly cooler, and given that aviator styles are making a comeback, these oversized Bottega Veneta Eyewear sunglasses should definitely be on your fall wish list. Even on cloudy days, the amber-hued lenses will brighten your view – and help boost your mood, too.
“I wanted to DESIGN something that doesn’t just sit on the wrist, but EMBRACES it – the sculptural curve feels like a piece of ARMOR that softens as it’s worn”
By Pariah founder Sophie Howard
Wearable art
With bold shapes such as Jacquemus’s curved trench coat, accessories can be kept to a minimum. “This piece can quite literally stand on its own,” says Fraser-Bell. “The volume and curve of the sleeves, offset against the cinch of the waist, makes for the most beautiful silhouette. It has a quiet and refined boldness to it.” Style it with straight-leg jeans, ankle boots and simple gold hoops to allow the voluminous sleeves to be the focal point. Similarly, Proenza Schouler’s floaty ‘Rue’ dress needs nothing more than a gold bracelet to enhance the shine of its gold-tone embellishment. Here, it’s styled with By Pariah’s ‘The Luna’ cuff. “The clean architectural lines of the Proenza Schouler dress provide the perfect canvas for the cuff’s bold yet minimal silhouette,” says By Pariah founder Sophie Howard. “I wanted to design something that doesn’t just sit on the wrist, but embraces it – the sculptural curve feels like a piece of armor that softens as it’s worn. Its shape is bold, yet its smooth lines make it incredibly comfortable and fluid.”
Power pieces
For her fall/winter ’25 Khaite collection, Catherine Holstein was inspired by the late, visionary film director David Lynch. The show notes opened with a quote from Lynch that read: “Stories have tangents; they open up and become different things. You can still have a structure, but you should leave room to dream.” The same can be said of our wardrobes – yes, you need the foundational pieces, the cashmere knits and great denim, but you should always leave space for the pieces you love purely because they make your heart sing. If you’re a Khaite fan, those pieces will no doubt be one of the brand’s impeccable leather jackets – the ‘Jameson’ style comes in a cool, collarless design. Its dream pairing? Styled with the ‘Quinn’ leather maxi skirt, it gives neo-noir vibes in the chicest way possible.