Jewelry Trends

Precious Details: Heart-Shaped Jewelry With A Contemporary Twist

Our fortnightly edit of trending fine jewelry and timepieces, plus expert styling advice

Clockwise from top left: pink heart ring, Yvonne Léon; earrings, Larkspur & Hawk; ‘Sunburst Heart’ ring, Sorrelina

Heart-shaped jewels have long triggered a ‘love them or hate them’ reaction. There are those who revel in their kitsch appeal, and others who find them just a tad too twee. But, now, a cohort of contemporary fine-jewelry designers are rallying to convert those who subscribe to the latter reaction, with a slick offering of heart-shaped designs that feel thoroughly modern – rather than mushy.

There are many iconic heart-shaped jewels that have kept the trend on rotation; few will forget the Heart of the Ocean blue-diamond necklace worn by Kate Winslet in Titanic, or the gleaming string of heart-shaped jewels bestowed upon Julia Roberts by Richard Gere in Pretty Woman. They’ve enjoyed a recent revival thanks to Carrie Bradshaw, too, with the style maven sporting a large green-crystal Vetements necklace in the pilot episode of And Just Like That…

Heart-shaped diamonds and gemstones have a rich history ­– they are one of the most difficult silhouettes to craft, as cutting the delicate cleft can easily shatter the entire stone. Their prestige has inevitably drawn several celebrities to choose a heart-shaped diamond for their engagement ring, including Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj and Gwen Stefani. Perhaps the most light-hearted of all diamond silhouettes, they are also, however, adored for their irreverence and fun factor; it is easy to inject a little charm and character into a heart-shaped jewel.

Channeling this chic playfulness is Parisian brand Yvonne Léon, whose 9-karat-gold signet ring features hot-pink enamel with a single diamond accent – reminiscent of the heart-shaped emoji with a precious twinkle. It’s difficult not to smile when you catch sight of it on your pinky, and it offers the perfect pop of color to add to your jewelry collection as we head towards spring.

Meanwhile, Larkspur & Hawk’s Valentina I love NY collection celebrates love in all its forms; native New Yorker and founder Emily Satloff found herself falling in love with her city all over again when she was cooped up during lockdown. For the first time, the brand’s button-back foil technique was applied to a heart shape: clear quartz is embraced by punchy pink luster and finished with rhodium-blackened silver to add a little rock-star grittiness to its sweet silhouette – the only jewel you’ll need with a white T-shirt and denim jacket.

Those seeking romance this February may be drawn to Sorellina’s whimsical ‘Sunburst Heart’ ring, inspired by the iconography of Tarot cards. Its 1.5-carat lavender-hued iolite is almost hypnotic; set in 18-karat gold with scintillating diamonds framing its silhouette, this is a bold gemstone with big impact – the perfect nod to Valentine’s Day, without any wallflower vibes whatsoever.

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