How To Wear The Runways’ Boldest Shades

For an outfit with impact, consider a full look in a single bold color. The fall/winter runways were awash with inspiration: from the top-to-toe tomato seen at Ferragamo, Magda Butrym and Acne Studios, to the enveloping emerald at Tom Ford or the all-over sunset hues at Zimmermann, single-shade dressing is a low-lift, maximum-impact way to demonstrate fashion flair. Whether you pair a bold maxi dress with accessories in a matching hue, or a suede skirt with a cotton T-shirt in the same tone, the trick is to ensure the specific shades are as closely matched as possible to keep the look polished. And, says Labanca, pick a shade that suits your skin tone, hair color and features. “I think color only makes sense when it complements you, otherwise the clothes wear you.”

When compiling a color-saturated look, embrace different textures to add sophistication and ensure an outfit feels interesting and layered. An acid-green silk shirt might feel jarring paired with a brown skirt in the same fabric, for example – but revisit the latter in a brown suede, and the outfit formula softens. “Use suede, silk and wool to create dimension,” suggests Vidrequin Roso. Unsure where to start? Try leather and cashmere – contrast the weight of Nour Hammour’s plum-toned leather ‘Drey’ jacket with Khaite’s super-soft ‘Nera’ cashmere crewneck in light blue, and finish with Loewe’s greige wool straight-leg pants: the perfect balance of complementary tones and textures.

After-dark invitations provide the perfect opportunity to embrace the rainbow more freely than you might in your everyday wardrobe, where functionality and versatility tend to be front of mind. Rather than reaching for your favorite LBD for your next cocktail event, opt instead for a short, structured mini in a zingy hue – like Emilia Wickstead’s ‘Rifer’ wool-crepe mini dress. Switch out black accessories for those in the same color family: Gucci’s ‘Selen’ horsebit mules in dark green and Toteme’s ‘Bevel’ satin tote in pastel yellow will keep the look nuanced. Instead of diamonds or pearls, opt for the warmth of deep brown resin jewelry – Dinosaur Designs’ rounded resin ring delivers a fresh take on cocktail bling.

Where once there were rules about mixing black and brown or pink and red, the fall/winter runways advocated for clashing, unexpected colors to create flashes of drama. Gucci demonstrated the deliciousness of soft pink paired with tomato red, and lilac with lime, while Tory Burch deftly combined apple green and khaki. Pairing a soft pastel – such as La Ligne’s ‘Liam’ pink cashmere tank – with a rich autumnal hue like the burgundy red of Joseph’s ‘Forrest’ pants is always a safe bet.

In recent seasons, tailoring has largely leaned on an ’80s banker aesthetic, with charcoal grays, power shoulders and pinstripes as mainstays. This season, however, designers championed an altogether more flamboyant energy, with suiting in an array of super-saturated hues: from electric blue at Dries Van Noten to violet at Gucci and sunshine yellow at Saint Laurent. A well-cut suit in a punchy color can be a throw-on-and-go power piece, but if you feel hesitant to embrace in-your-face officewear, Vidrequin Roso recommends starting with a single piece: “If you don’t want to commit fully, pair a forest-green blazer (such as Max Mara’s ‘Talento’ wool belted style) with black pants, which is far less daunting.” It’s best to keep the accessories sleek and discreet: a slim belt, a neutral bag and pared-back shoes. “The color is already the protagonist,” concludes Vidrequin Roso, “so the supporting cast should be subtle.”