The Italian Maestro Of Delicate, Daring Designs
Founded more than a century ago, Buccellati is a fourth-generation, fine-jewelry maison that has refined some of the industry’s most rarefied artisanal techniques – and imbued them with a stylish dose of Italian heritage
Milanese maison Buccellati is the ultimate example of how Italian elegance can be imbued into fine jewelry with masterful panache. From humble beginnings as an apprentice enthralled by Renaissance antiques, founder Mario Buccellati opened his first boutique in Milan in 1919, near the venerated La Scala theater. Buccellati revived the use of ancient tools and traditions, such as intricate goldsmithing and complex enameling, crafting timeless jewels that were informed by classic artisanry and infused with his passion for Venetian art and textiles.
Today, the Opera Tulle collection is a modern embodiment of this aesthetic, reinterpreting opulent damasks and Venetian laces in precious metals and lavish gemstones, in which the house logo presents itself as the protagonist. This instantly recognizable motif, played out in rich gold and enamel, is bestowed upon a myriad of rings, sautoirs, pendants and stud earrings. Each creation has a radial tulle layer, too – a Buccellati signature that is exceptionally difficult to craft due to its delicate design. Whether set with semi-precious stones such as onyx or mother of pearl, or adorned with scintillating diamonds, each piece belies its legacy of exceptional, centuries-old goldsmithing.
Traditionally, many of Buccellati’s signature techniques would have been used in high-end architecture or to adorn decorative objects in churches, cathedrals, and ornamental domes. Enameling, for example, can be traced back to Ancient Greece and Rome, before it became more prevalent in the Byzantine era, then utilized to decorate precious objects, such as watches or snuff boxes, in the 18th century. Today, however, Buccellati has harnessed this craft to bring prestige and rarefied beauty to fine jewelry designs that can be worn for everyday allure. Cue the maison’s ‘Opera Tulle’ sautoir, which sings from the canvas of a color-block shirt or a sharply cut blazer, its delicate femininity making it the perfect match for androgynous styling.
““Together, the father and daughter design duo continue to marry past and present, fusing ancient artisan techniques with contemporary, covetable style”
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Meanwhile, the maison’s ‘Marioleaf’ collection draws upon some of the founder’s original designs from the 1930s. A striking cuff, with shining leaves that embrace the wrist, offers a more imposing alternative to the ‘Opera Tulle’ motif – cleverly showcasing the brand’s ability to master all metals, while ensuring each design remains current for everyday wear. Casual luxury abounds here, with opulent jewels looking equally at home against luxe athleisure separates and soft cashmere as they do teamed with sleek, simple eveningwear.
This consistent, modern-day relevance is reflected by the maison itself, too. While Mario Buccellati passed away in 1965, successive generations of the family have risen to the helm, keeping the closely guarded knowledge of Italian craftsmanship at its core. Lucrezia Buccellati, Mario’s great granddaughter, is now co-creative director of the house alongside her father, Andrea Buccellati; together, the father and daughter design duo continue to marry past and present, fusing ancient artisan techniques with contemporary, covetable style. Now, with a dynasty like few others, the Buccellati brand DNA is almost rendered immortal – a steadfast pursuit of artistic expression spun and sculpted into each timeless design.