Most Wanted: The New Ornate

Ornate textures – from embroidered silks to heirloom-worthy brocades – ruled the runways, delivering drama, opulence and an air of old-school glamour that set the mood for fall. Brands such as Dries Van Noten, Anna Sui and Erdem went all in on the trend with mismatched patterns, tactile fabrics and elaborate embellishments, while Kallmeyer, The Row and Conner Ives all chose one or two statement pieces, which they paired with denim, knitwear and sleek tailoring.

If you’re wondering how to embrace the look in an everyday setting, look to tastemakers who attended shows across fashion month in brocade trophy jackets, floral-jacquard tops and vintage-inspired accessories. NET–A-PORTER’s junior shopping editor Millie Parry will be taking cues from Alexa Chung and opting for a statement coat. “I loved Dries Van Noten’s coat the minute I saw it on the fall/winter ’26 runway – the embroidered detailing is so beautiful,” she says. “I’ll be wearing mine with a simple white tee, Agolde’s ‘Vintage Loose’ jeans and Roger Vivier’s ‘Efflorescence’ pumps for dinner dates with friends, adding Julietta’s sculptural ‘Lucia’ earrings and Sophie Buhai’s ‘Teardrop’ pouch into the mix for added interest.”

Naturally, velvet is integral to this trend and comes in a variety of colors and textures for fall. First seen on the runway, Balmain’s skirt is detailed with gold devoré flowers with a gathered waist and a thigh-skimming front slit. Wear it to parties from now right through to December and pair it with Róhe’s trending velvet jacket – beautifully detailed with traditional Chinese Pankou button closures – and Valentino Garavani’s ‘Rockstud’ suede slingbacks.

Accessories are, of course, the easiest way to embrace ornate textures and embellishments without having to commit to a full look. Dries Van Noten’s floral-jacquard shoulder bag is the perfect way to elevate cashmere and denim, while the brand’s fringed bead-embellished scarf looks ultra-chic styled with tailoring – either tied around the waist or draped over a tuxedo-style shirt. Alternatively, zhuzh up everyday outfits by pinning Saint Laurent’s crystal and resin-embellished ‘Baroquesun’ brooch to a cardigan or the lapels of your blazer.