The Science And Scintillation Of Courbet’s Sustainable, Stylish Jewels
There’s a new maison at Place Vendôme: meet Courbet – the label bringing innovation to fine-jewelry’s epicenter to deliver modern, planet-friendly pieces that will stand the test of time
Courbet – the maison on a mission to create beautiful, timeless fine jewelry with as little environmental impact as possible – was founded in 2018 by Marie-Ann Wachtmeister and Manuel Mallen. Having climbed to the top of luxury behemoths, the duo was expertly placed to combine financial acumen and science with artistic ingenuity to shake up Place Vendôme – the epicenter of Paris’s jewelry industry and home to every major maison since the late 1800s. Indeed, even the brand’s name hinges on this location, with the founders selecting ‘Courbet’ in homage to French rebel painter Gustave Courbet – the revolutionary of Place Vendôme, who is most celebrated for painting L’Origine du Monde and for championing change during the 1871 Commune Paris revolt.
“Contemporary stacking rings, single earrings and delicate cord bracelets add a dash of modernity, while each piece is embellished with the maison’s signature diamants synthétiques
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It is with a rebellious spirit, then, that Courbet is working exclusively with laboratory-grown diamonds (diamants synthétiques), intent on reinventing some of the traditions of fine-jewelry making. “We are gemstone experts, and we are respectful of our planet,” says Mallen, who describes advances in creating beautiful lab-grown diamonds as “technological magic”. Courbet’s lab-grown diamonds (diamants synthétiques) are created via two methods: combining high pressure with intense heat (just as natural diamonds were formed 3 billion years ago), or via chemical vapor deposition, which involves filling a vacuum chamber with carbon-containing gas to crystallize over a synthetic-diamond seed. Both methods result in a lab-grown diamond (diamant synthétique) that can be graded with the usual gemological characteristics: carat, clarity, color, and cut. However, diamonds aren’t its only innovation: Courbet’s recycled gold is also sourced from urban mines that specialize in recycling precious metal – proving this really is a new age for fine jewels.
What, in that case, remains of the history, legacy and exceptional artisanry that is synonymous with Place Vendôme? “Courbet is first and foremost a Parisian jeweler,” explains Wachtmeister. Perusing the maison’s collections, this is an easy statement to confirm, with its timeless solitaires, studs and delicate chains exuding pared-back elegance – a staple of French style. Contemporary stacking rings, single earrings and delicate cord bracelets add a dash of modernity, while each piece is embellished with the maison’s signature diamants synthétiques. There is also a recurring motif throughout its designs – ‘CO’ – which the founders cite as a reference to “COnnection, COllaboration and COnscience”.
The ‘Celeste’ collection is where this motif truly shines, with fluid chains and articulated rings bringing life to the ‘CO’ talisman. Wachtmeister enjoys how its curves evoke the embrace of the moon and sun during an eclipse, but there is deeper, etymological relevance, too; in Latin, the prefix ‘CO’ means ‘doing things together’. This togetherness is echoed in the maison’s eco-friendly partnerships, which see the label work in conjunction with Rainforest Alliance, The Ocean Cleanup, International Animal Rescue, Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and Save the Children to further develop ethical initiatives. The packaging and delivery have been carefully considered, too: where possible, the jewels are wrapped in a recycled leather case and delivered by hand to Parisian customers by bicycle. It seems some things in Place Vendôme will never change.
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