This Collection Is A Game-Changer For Responsibly Crafted Denim
Discover the latest premium denim pieces from Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE, showcasing a commitment to responsible production and thoughtful design. Here, editor Jo Ellison and her daughter Ada Walsh demonstrate how to wear the key pieces
The Los Angeles-based denim specialist Citizens of Humanity takes its brand name quite literally; it wants to create the most responsible denim on the planet. Under the nurturing leadership of CEO Amy Williams, the Citizens group — comprising Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE — has made it its mission to constantly innovate for better denim practices. Last year, it unveiled its regenerative farming and cotton-sourcing model, partnering with farmers across America who are growing their crops in a way that nourishes the soil; this raw, American-made cotton is used for its signature, soft denim. But for Williams, that’s not enough. She says it’s “imperative” that the industry “embraces solutions to mitigate our environmental impact.”
Launching exclusively with NET-A-PORTER this week, the Citizens group has just unveiled its latest development: Eco Indigo, a new sustainable denim dye technique made using renewable energy and derived from byproducts of food waste. The project was launched in partnership with Pili, a French Biotech Company, and Orta, a responsible denim mill in Turkey. Released on NET-A-PORTER’s NET SUSTAIN platform – a carefully curated selection of products that champions best practices in manufacturing – the collection across Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE includes smart workwear shirts, relaxed jeans and polished waistcoats in the deepest indigo hues. The Eco Indigo is super soft and suitable for lounging all day in.
“It’s smart enough to wear to work or out for dinner,” says Jo Ellison, editor of the Financial Times’ HTSI magazine and a certified denim devotee. Ellison has put in the legwork to find her favorite pairs — her personal collection is in the double digits, and when pregnant with her daughter, Ada Walsh, she wore her husband Enda’s jeans. Walsh has inherited that same affection: she is often borrowing pairs from her mother’s closet. And while their sartorial preferences differ — Ellison prefers big, baggy silhouettes and a barrel leg, while Walsh styles her favorite low-slung jeans with a tank top — both agree the Eco Indigo collection proves that better-made denim “is no longer a compromise when it comes to quality and that luxurious hand-feel,” says Ellison.
“Denim is [a long-lasting choice] because we all wear it so often,” says Ellison. “But it’s also a problematic garment for a lot of people because the way it’s ordinarily produced is really terrifying,” she continues. Buying well is key. The editor prolongs the life of her favorite pairs by washing them very irregularly and exclusively using cold water. “To know that there is denim out there that is produced in a more ecological way is a great thing,” she says.
“To know that there is denim out there that is produced in a more ecological way is a great thing
”Jo Ellison
Walsh agrees that it’s a win-win. “My friends and I talk about sustainability; younger generations especially care about where their clothes come from,” she says. “That’s what luxury is now. Brands should care.” Citizens’ new indigo dye fits that bill. It’s made using more responsible manufacturing principles, such as lower temperatures and renewable energy sources, to reduce its impact on the planet. This innovation is a game-changer when it comes to responsible denim.
“My friends and I talk about sustainability; younger generations especially care about where their clothes come from. That’s what luxury is now
”Ada Walsh
“I wear jeans most days,” says Ellison, who usually pairs them with understated sweaters, but has recently fallen for double denim. “It looks really smart,” she says. “When you get to a certain age, it’s nice to have that consistent tone, and denim blue works for almost every skin tone, so it’s really flattering and brings out the whites of your eyes.” Today, she’s opted for Citizens of Humanity’s straight-cut ‘Blaine’ jeans in a medium indigo with subtle fading, that bring a cool workwear feel; she’s teamed them with the ‘Cropped Western’ shirt, tucked in just so. “Pop on a heel and a blazer, and it’s something you could easily wear to meetings,” says Ellison of double denim’s newfound status as a smart-casual suit alternative. The ‘Jasmin’ denim vest equally ticks those boxes.
Ellison thinks dark denim is a smart choice for after dark. “It feels dressier than stonewashed styles; in that dark shade, jeans like the ‘Ayla’ have the effect of trousers.” Longevity in denim is something that appeals to Ellison, who generally favors tailored silhouettes that can be dressed up or down and aren’t tied to seasonal trends — and Citizens of Humanity’s new indigo hue, in a rich inky shade, gives denim pieces increased versatility and wardrobe mileage.
Walsh enjoys the nonchalance of denim, especially in ’90s silhouettes, which read as a bit more relaxed and rebellious than polished pairs. “I’ve always worn jeans rather than track pants,” says Walsh, who appreciates that loose-cut jeans have a similarly “casual” vibe. Her mother taught her that clashing textures with jeans was an easy way for instant chic; she often pairs her denims with white cotton T-shirts, inspired by the ’90s supermodel uniform, as well as leather pieces. She’s also increasingly gravitating towards double denim. AGOLDE’s ‘Zyla Cinch’ jacket is an interesting and fashion-forward spin on a utilitarian jacket. It looks great paired with the ‘V Waist Kelly’ jeans, and would look cool in summer with a mini slip dress and sneakers.
As Ellison notes: “I can’t think of anyone who doesn’t look good in denim.”